Monday, November 25, 2013

Tap... Tap... Tapas!

One of the surprises on this trip was Valencia. I hadn't really done much research into it and other than a vague notion of its place in European history my knowledge of its attractions was scanty.  Given the cost of WiFi on the cruise ship attempts to find out the wonders it was to present proved to be expensive so we relied on the information distributed by the good people at Azamara.  Fortunately it was enough to provide suggestions of a few of the highlights of what proved to be a wonderful city.

I'm currently working on two posts about some quirky little things I found there.  Now that I have better - and free - Internet access it will be easier to do a big of digging to find out more about several of the things that intrigued me there.

Normally I like to see what Lonely Plant and Trip Adviser suggest when planning to eat in a city but as those options proved unavailable we trusted to the kitchen gods to lead us to a good place.  It was a Saturday and the area around the Plaza Real and Mercado was awash with locals and tourists.  As we left the Llotja de la Seda (Silk Market) Laurent suggested that we get away from the crowds so we detoured down a small side street and stumbled upon El Rall (website in Spanish only).  We noticed that two of the senior officers from the cruise ship were at a terrace table (a good sign???) and that there was shade, an interesting tapas menu and available tables.

The Placa in front of the two buildings that make up El Rall serves as a pleasant tree
shaded terrace. Just far enough away from the noise and bustle of the Mercato and tourist
central. Local families having their Saturday lunch was a sign this was a good place to eat.
As our meal progressed we noticed local families taking tables near us - including a large family gathering of some 16 people celebrating the Pater Familias's birthday. Laurent mentioned that it was wonderful to see kids (5-10 year olds) eating black rice, squid and other "exotic" dishes as though this were normal fare - and for them it probably was. Watching the families - and a young courting couple - to the background music of a jazz guitarist seated on a nearby stone bench only added to the entertainment and pleasure of the afternoon.

Comments that appear in several reviews of the restaurant in Trip Adviser mentioned the "slow service" and in truth it was a little on the leisurely side but as we were in no hurry and the food, the wine and the atmosphere were good so we couldn't consider it a problem.

The last time Sidd had tapas was in Amsterdam and he was eager to see
if the "real" stuff measured up.  The meatballs certainly did and the
tomatoey sauce was yummy when sopped up with that crusty bread.



The boar stew wasn't something that Sidd thought he'd like but when he saw
the youngsters at the table next to us dig into theirs' he figured he'd give it a try. 
He wasn't all that fond of it so I had to do the honours.  Fortunately I love boar!



The cod and potato croquettes were a little more to his taste but he would have liked
the outside a bit crispier - some crunch is always good.


When there's ham on the menu Sidd always has to doff his cap to Cecilia and have a slice or two
in her honour.  And when its been cured for 38 months it has that special deep flavour.  Porcine heaven!

My mango sorbet, though good, was of little interest to our Sidd; particularly
when there's cheesecake on offer. The homemade marmalade topping hit his
sweet tooth at just the right angle.  Laurent approved of it too!
After a fine array of tapas and a very nice Spanish red - boy do they do fine fully bodied reds - cafe con leche and a complimentary digestif it was time to head back to the boat. Another day in Valencia would have been more than welcome but all it means is that there will be things to see the next time!

November 25 - 1947: Red Scare: The "Hollywood Ten" are blacklisted by Hollywood movie studios.
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Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Bloggus Interruptus


It’s been a fantastic trip so far – so many wonderful things, people, foods, wines and places. And as always the Azamara Quest has been a great place to call home – nice cabin, great staff, good food and excellent sailing. Well okay there were those unexpected hiccups – not being able to dock in Sorrento, having to miss Trapani because of an approaching storm and two days at sea spent on the edge of said storm tossing and rolling like a rubber ducky in a kid’s bathtub. But its those little hiccups that give a vacation added fun – well okay those two days weren’t exactly fun so let’s say: give a vacation added dimension.

Sidd and the Quest in Valencia - he's been seriously thinking about that Join the Navy and See the World slogan - provided there aren't too many rough sea days!


This morning at 0400 we docked in Seville – note I said in not near – in one of the most elegant and complicated maneuvers I’ve seen from a ship our size. Yes we were up at 0300 to watch it all: gliding under a bridge with only feet to spare, a pivoting turn in a small basin and an slow, graceful backing-down a two kilometer channel to our berth at one of the main bridges in town. I might add we slid into the berth with nary a bump being felt. Captain Smith is some sailor!

On a calm sea day Sidd enjoyed breakfast on the balcony, strategically place right at the stern of the Quest.

It’s our last day on the Quest and then tomorrow we’re off to a hotel for a few more days in Seville. One of the few things I will complain about on Azamara is the cost of the Internet – frankly its astronomical! They do warn that it is not the fastest in the world but what they don’t mention is that you will have to dip into the kids’ college fund to pay for it – well okay given the age of most of the passengers make that the grand-kids’ college fund.

And they do really fine Bloody Marys up on the Pool Deck - and no that isn't Karl Lagerfeld joining him - just some strange guy who keeps following him around.

As anyone who knows that has read this blog for any length of time my posts tend to be photo, link and reference heavy. The posts I’ve been working on (woodwork at the Monastery of Pedrables, unusual statues in a church in Valencia, memorable food, strange Gothic creatures at the Silk Market et al) are no different. A combination of the slow and the charges make loading most of my blog posts a costly affair while on the ship. Text is no problem – you work in Word, copy and paste. It’s the research, downloading and uploading that eats away at the time and in our case Nick and Nora’s obedience training fund – and let’s admit it with the HFH that fund better be bottomless.

All this to say I’ve got posts in the works however they will have to wait until I get free, or at least less costly, Wi-Fi.

November 12 -1943:YellowDog Granny (our darling JackieSue), one hot Texas pistol, was born.

Monday, November 11, 2013

Lest We Forget





For all those who did not return, for those who returned wounded in body, for those who returned wounded or dead in spirit.
Futility

Move him into the sun—
Gently its touch awoke him once,
At home, whispering of fields half-sown.
Always it woke him, even in France,
Until this morning and this snow.
If anything might rouse him now
The kind old sun will know.

Think how it wakes the seeds,—
Woke, once, the clays of a cold star.
Are limbs, so dear-achieved, are sides,
Full-nerved—still warm—too hard to stir?
Was it for this the clay grew tall?
—O what made fatuous sunbeams toil
To break earth’s sleep at all?

Wilfred Owen
(b. March 18, 1893 Oswestry, England – d. November 5, 1918 Sambre-Oise Canal, France)

I have written posts on four other Remembrance Days and as I read them once again and I am aware of the debt I owe to those who fought, died, were wounded in body or in spirit. Because of their sacrifice I am able to enjoy a life that is rich in more ways than I ever thought possible, in a country where the freedom to live my life the way I wish to is possible. We must never allow their sacrifice go unrecognized in any way.

Lest We Forget - 2008

Lest We Forget - 2009

Lest We Forget - 2010

Lest We Forget - 2012


11 November - 1918: World War I: Germany signs an armistice agreement with the Allies in a railroad car in the forest of Compiègne, France.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

To Everything There Is A Season

One of my constant whines – I can only imagine the surprise it must be for many of my friends to think I would actually whine about something – when I first returned from Italy had to do with food. It just wasn’t the same in Canada. Things weren’t fresh picked – they had been shipped in unripened and allowed (or forced chemically) to ripen in the store. There was not flavor! No great variety! And many of the vegetables and fruits were available – if in perhaps a state of tastelessness – year round. There was no seasonality!

Now given the climate in Ottawa the idea of fresh picked does have its seasonal limitations – the probability of anything growing is low and the improbability of anyone harvesting at -32c are reasonably high. But come on now variety? Would that be so hard to do?

Though things are looking up for varieties – particularly heirloom vegetables – but this photo taken at a flower shop in Sorrento will give you an indication of the variety of tomatoes that are grown in Italy.

You say tomato - I say TOMATOES! Eleven!  Count them - eleven types of tomatoes.  You name the occasion and you've got a red (yellow or green) ball of goodness that was made just for Nona's secret recipe.

Eleven – count them eleven different seed packets and none of them are “heirloom” – just your average Italian garden variety. Some for sauce, some for salad, some for roasting (god is there anything closer to heaven than roasted tomatoes?), others for stuffing, yet another for matching with a good Mozzarella di Buffala. I recall buying tomatoes from our local greengrocer (who by the way is still there and greeted us with big smiles and the hope that we were back to stay) and the first question was always: what are you using them for?

And of course what was available depended on the time of year – for everything. The watermelons were sweet and juicy in August but forget finding any on the market in September, artichokes were the last weeks of March and the first week of April, figs (the sweet, pale green skinned Italian variety) in June and July and this time of year: late October early November it’s kaki season!

A type of persimmon, but unlike any from North America I've every tasted, the kaki has a custardy texture with just a touch of astringency.  And apparently you can use it as an instrument to foretell the weather for the coming season.
Sidd joined me at Peter and Joe’s in savouring the joy of a chilled kaki ready to burst its orange skin and deliver creamy, custardy, astringent but sweet goodness.
I’m not sure if they remember my child-like (okay perhaps childish is a better adjective) joy when kaki season arrived but it was the perfect finish to a splendid meal with cherished friends in a place I love.

November 10 - 1871:Henry Morton Stanley locates missing explorer and missionary, Dr. David Livingstone in Ujiji, near Lake Tanganyika, famously greeting him with the words, "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?"

Wednesday, November 06, 2013

Mercoledi Musicale

Well Sidd listen to both Beethoven and Mendelssohn and decided that a bit of choral music wouldn’t go amiss. So Beethoven it is!

Composed with a dedication to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, it uses two of his poems as subjects for a brief cantata. It was premiered in Vienna in 1815 but wasn’t published until 7 years later. That young scamp Felix Mendelssohn was to use the poems as inspiration for his concert overture of the same name. It’s the better know of the two – which could account for Sidd’s choice! He can be a bit perverse that way.


Grosser Chor des Berliner Rundfunks, Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin                                    
Helmuth Koch, conductor 1970                                    


Though we’re praying for “calm seas” when Goethe wrote his poem that was the last thing a sailor wanted - sailing ships needed wind.  We could do with a little less.

Calm Seas (Meeres Stille)

Deep stillness rules the water
Without motion lies the sea,
And sadly the sailor observes
Smooth surfaces all around.
No air from any side!
Deathly, terrible stillness!
In the immense distances
not a single wave stirs.

Prosperous Journey (Glückliche Fahrt)

The fog is torn,
The sky is bright,
And Aeolus releases
The fearful bindings.
The winds whisper,
The sailor begins to move.
Swiftly! Swiftly!
The waves divide,
The distance nears;
Already, I see land!
November 6 - 1917: World War I: Third Battle of Ypres ends: After three months of fierce fighting, Canadian forces take Passchendaele in Belgium.
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Tuesday, November 05, 2013

Mal de Mer (Sick of the Sea)

One could be forgiven for using a mistranslation of the French phrase for sea-sickness after the past 24 hours and given the forecast for the next 24. So far the state of the Mediterranean has dictated that we not stop in Sorrento but closer to Napoli in a town called Castellammare di Stabia – a place that’s only claim to fame is that Pliny the Elder died there and that it's the home town of Al Capone's family.  It meant that alternate ways had to be found to get to Sorrento and Capri but the Azamara cruise people did a fine job of handling that little hiccup.

Sidd contemplates the rather rough seas from our stateroom and ponders - which version of Meeresstille und glückliche Fahrt would be most appropriate - Beethoven or Mendelssohn?

As we were leaving Castellmmare – which looks charming from the sea but proved a sad example of what is happening in this part of Italy when observed close up – the Captain announced that once we had left port we could expect a rather rough overnight voyage to Trapani. The forecast was for 5 metre waves and winds blowing at 40 knots. That translated into 14 hours of rocking and rolling with yours truly loosing his sea legs and a bit else.

After watching a tanker make three attempts to enter the harbour at Trapani our Captain Carl Smith decided that though it would be possible to land there given the forecasted storm it would make our evening departure from Sicily difficult. He made the decision to abort berthing at Trapani and continue on to Barcelona just ahead of what promises to be a nasty spat of weather. Not that the weather we have been heading into was any great shakes. Strangely the sky has been a wonderful Mediterranean blue but again there have been 5 metre waves with winds at 40-50 knots. But at least we may avoid the forecasted 15 metre waves and accompanying winds that are coming down from the Gulf of Lions.

With the aid of a little yellow pill and a sensible lunch – no wine and small portions – have restored my sea legs and kept other symptoms of mal de mer at bay. However as the sun is setting the rocking and rolling seems to be increasing holding promise for another interesting night at sea.

Laurent is holding up well and Sidd – though his expression never changes I’ve noticed a touch of green on his face. Either that or it’s a reflection from mine.

November 5: 1955 -  After being destroyed in World War II, the rebuilt Vienna State Opera reopens with a performance of Beethoven's Fidelio.

Monday, November 04, 2013

The Faithful of the Faithful

Today (Tuesday) while passing the cash at a great little restaurant in Sorrento (Il Pozzo – one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had!) a very shaggy and very friendly dog peaked his head around the corner of the counter. I said hello and gave him a scratch; the cashier immediately apologized but I assured her it was more than okay and that I wished I could rub my twos’ hairy little heads about now. I guess she was expecting the normal North American reaction of: Oh my god a dog in the restaurant Harry, where are the health authorities? Get the Purettes immediately!

Here of course if you go for pranzo, your morning coffee or shopping it’s not unusual to take the dog with you. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve seen dogs lying contentedly under a table, occasional looking up to get a table scrap or simply to stretch and see who else has arrived. Or sitting patiently at the counter while their owner had their cappucc and cornetti – maybe catching the odd flake scattered from errant lips that were expressing an opinion of world events and eating at the same time – both with the same gusto. Or dogs attached to the wall fixtures outside shops meant to secure even the strongest leash – most waiting patiently but occasionally giving a sharp bark just to remind their owner who was outside waiting patiently while they argued over the price of arugula!

However I was still surprised, and amused when I opened the window at our B and B on Friday morning and saw:



Obviously his human had gone in to hear an early mass for Ognisanti and buddy was waiting patiently. He remained that way for almost 20 minutes.


Finally mass was over and a stream of people left the church - he only moved to greet his owner with a wagging tail and a few barks.  Maybe asking if she felt better about things now? Or maybe just as a “move along its time for coffee and cornetti”.
November 4 - 1921: The Italian unknown soldier is buried in the Altare della Patria in Rome.

Le Belle Donne di Sidd

As well as allowing Sidd to see some of my favourite places in Roma, this trip gave him the opportunity to meet quite a few of our friends.  Sidd, being Sidd, seemed to gravitate to our lady friends – not that he has anything against men just that it’s a bit harder to get a man to pose in public holding a gnome.  So many men just have no sense of adventure.



The first of our lady friends that Sidd got to know was our Simonetta.  He had heard so much about her – and he wasn’t disappointed.  She was just as fascinating and fun as he had heard she would be. 



In three hours with Nancy Sidd learned so much about Rome and the history of the end of one era and the beginning of another.  As he was taking his leave after a satisfying lunch of caccio e pepe he expressed the hope that she would start writing down all the incredible things she knows.



Dinner at Peter and Joe’s meant a chance for Sidd to say hello to old friends and meet a few new.  Sadly Diana left before we could get a shot of her and Sidd but Gisella and he seemed to hit it off.  I’m not sure what he just said to her – I’m just hoping he remembered his manners and it wasn’t anything untoward.



I met Sidd through Lara, who started off as a colleague at work and became a dear friend.  I was happy to introduce him to two former colleagues who also became valued friends – Gail and Jolka.  He remarked that I always seem to be fortunate in finding great people to work with.  Sidd can be very perceptive.


With a 2100 start time it was a little difficult to wedge dinner in before the Angela Hewitt concert on Thursday so we joined photographer extraordinaire Anna for aperitivo  at a tiny but friendly enoteca.  Sidd was rather partial to the polenta with ragu – and the not unpleasant Tuscan red that went with it.  And Anna took Sidd's picture!



The last day in Rome was a chance to catch up with our darling Linda and Nazareno.  He looks great after his recent hospital adventure and Sidd warmed up to Linda immediately, as indeed who wouldn’t?   It was like old - and good - times.


Later that day he got a chance to have a touch of a Taste of Scotland with out friend Rachel.  Unfortunately only had his photo tasting with the Sidd-sized barrels of grain that are used in the making of Scotch here in Italy.  Scotch making in Italy – who knew?

As we were packing on Saturday Sidd mused about the people he had met over the week and how lucky we were to have been able to spend time with them all.   He was sorry that he had missed Robert and Walter but really enjoyed meeting Larry, Vin, Mark, Johann, Peter, Joe and Nazerano – they were all great guys but he wondered what they had against having their pictures taken with gnomes?  I told him it was a guy thing – he nodded, shrugged and said:  Boh! 

Sidd’s gone native!

November  4 - 1737: The Teatro di San Carlo in Napoli is inaugurated.

Sunday, November 03, 2013

Osservazioni di Roma

Well its been two years since I wandered the streets of Rome and the past few days have been like many homecomings after a time away - much has stayed the same and much has changed.  Somethings for the better other things not so much.

Sidd, knowing how bad a flier I am, thought it would be a laugh to count down the "klicks" left during the trip.  Little bugger snickered every time we hit turbulence too!  He keeps that up and he will be traveling with the luggage not in Club Class!
  • For over two years I would keep a medical appointment in Trastevere every Tuesday at 1400.  And every Tuesday at 1350 I would drop into a cafe-bar in Piazza Piscinula and have an espresso - it got to the point where Paolo the bar man would see me coming and start making my coffee.  On Sunday afternoon we sat on the wooden terrace there and Paolo came over - greeted me as if I had never left and brought me my espresso.  We exchanged pleasantries - he joked about the new waitress as being the love of his life and as I left we shook hands with the assurance that we would meet again.
Being a Nature Worshiper it was a bit difficult to explain to Sidd why there are so many churches in Roma - right outside our window was St Pascale Baylon.  Fortunately the church bells didn't disturb Sidd's sleep too much, nor did the midnight Jazz concerts at the cafe below us.
  • The number 8 tram, which ran through Trastevere and ended at Largo Argentina has been extended down to Piazza Venezia.  A big improvement and makes getting into Centro so much easier from where we were.
    After the church stuff it was even more difficult to explain the whole Kosher food schtick to Sidd; however he took one look at the roasted tomatoes and grilled chicken at Taverna del Ghetto and decided it was a good thing!
    • Tropical Ice - our favourite Gelatoria - is still open and the wonderful fresh flavours are still being served up by the charmingly handsome owner.  And he remembered that I take my coppetta neat - no whipped cream.  The sad news is that he has sold the business and will be moving on to other things.   It seems to be a story that is repeating itself over and over again here.
    Okay now this was a bit more to Sidd's taste - just some of the wonderful flavours at Tropical Ice.  And they were just as delicious as I remember them being - and with the intense taste that only natural ingredients bring to Marco's gelati.
    • It looks like other businesses in our old neighbourhood have closed:  Stella Maris, so often our Friday night local, has been replaced by a pizza chain.  And where the Bifteka, a very good streak house, once stood is now a very large McDonald's.  A few other stores have disappeared as have several of the coffee shops - fortunately none have been replaced by Starbucks.
    Sidd gets his first taste of water from one of Roma's famous Nasone or water fountains.  As they have done since Roman times they deliver cold, pure water to refresh the local populace.  Who would bother with the bottled tap water they sell in stores under fancy names when you can get this for free?

      • There are more beggars on the streets and not just the regular crew of gypsies - though amongst the lame, the halt and the maimed most of the faces were familiar ones.  Older people here have seen their pensions cut and, in a repeat of something I recall from Poland in the late 1990s, some of them seem to have taken to begging.  Hunger has no pride.
      Sidd admires the Mostra della Acqua Felice which I wrote about extensively a few years ago.  He noticed that though it was only cleaned three years ago, the exhaust from the traffic is starting to blacken the stone already. 

        • Many of the restaurants in our old neighbourhood stood mostly empty on Monday at lunch time though I was happy to see that by Wednesday business had picked up at Checco e Lina, an old haunt of my friend Dario and I.  It was the fullest I had ever seen it at pranzo.  The food is still dependable solid cucina Romana and the service as welcoming as ever.
        November 3 - 1868:  John Willis Menard was the first African American elected to the United States Congress. Because of an electoral challenge, he was never seated.

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          Saturday, October 26, 2013

          New Travels with Sidd


          Well Sidd is on the road again – and where Sidd goes so go we!  I realize that I’ve been away from the blogging scene for some time now and a few people have even suggested that I have been missed.  Well okay two people showed a mild interest in to why I have not been clogging the net with my thoughts, feelings and, particularly, information on the Hounds from Hell.   So as we begin another adventure with Sidd I thought I’d pick up my pen – well actually open the laptop – as I sit here in Trudeau Airport and in some way chronicle of trip.

          In the next 26 days Sidd, and Laurent and I as his faithful porters, will be using bus, plane, ship and train to celebrate 35 years together.  No not 35 years with Sidd – 35 years with Laurent.  

          It all started back in August – no not the 35 years with Laurent that started in November 1978 – when I received an e-mail offering a wonderful deal on an 11 day cruise from Rome to Seville.  I mean it was one of those opportunities you just couldn’t pass up – no not the 35 years with Laurent, well okay that but I’m talking about the cruise here.    And that was the kernel of the trip – 11 days on the Azamara Quest; but of course since it started in Rome and I hadn’t been back in two years it only made sense to arrive a few days early – get over jet lag, stop of in a few familiar places, see a few exhibitions and, more importantly, see as many of our dear friends as we can.  And it turns out the last direct flight from Montreal to Rome was scheduled for today.  So the trip was extended to 17 days.

          Sidd, ignoring the bad weather on the Greyhound trip from Ottawa to Dorval.

          The cruise ends in Seville – and though we had spent time in Madrid and Barcelona, Andalusia has been sadly missing from our travel diaries.  And while we're in that area it would be criminal to miss Granada and the Alhambra.  Make that 23 days!

          Sidd and food - something new - well he's never eaten at Dorval Airport.
          Getting back to Canada was the next goal and if you’re travelling on airline passes the most frequently flights are out of London.  How to get to London from Granada – well the Man in Seat61 suggested train – and I’m a sucker for trains.  Particularly when its an overnight hotel train where you have a dining car and a comfortable cabin – which would get us to Paris.  These days with the Eurostar it’s only a hop skip and a jump to London and a short visit with friends before heading back to the New World.  Ergo 26 days – god and the Air Canada flight loads willing.

          So here we are waiting for the Air Transat plane to board after a bus ride from Ottawa – that’s two modes off the list.   Though I can’t promise that I’ll be recording our every move or Sidd’s every adventure I cover as much as I can – just to prove that I can still clog up the net with blogging.

          October 26 - 1861:  The Pony Express officially ceases operations.

          Sunday, July 21, 2013

          Candy? Iron? Wood?

          Choices! Choices!

          According to one of those lists on About.com that is the choice I have when it comes to getting Laurent a gift to celebrate our 6th wedding anniversary.

          July 21 - 2007: In our friend Joelle's garden with Elaine who married us - I remember her as a
          little girl at Air Canada Christmas parties.  Though it was a glorious sunny day the small lantern
          was lit to represent all our friends who could not be with us that day.

          A traditional gift would be:
          • Candy - to symbolize the sweetness of our love
          • Iron - to represent the strength of our marriage
          Apparently a more modern gift would be:
          • Wood - to signify a long-lasting and solid relationship
          If I were to choose something sparkly and blingy it would be in:
          • Amythest
          • Turquoise
           Should I wish to celebrate in colour they suggest:
          • purple
          • turquoise
          • white (?????)
          And if I'm going to say it with flowers:
          • calla lilies - which signify "magnificent beauty" in the language of flowers
          And we could celebrate by:
          • Making candy together
          • Planting a tree together:
          - An oak represents solidity
          - A pine represents the evergreen character of our love
          - A flaming red maple represents the flaming passion we have for each other
          - A flowering crab (?) tree represents love eternal
          Choices! Choices!

          I think we'll just wish each other Happy Anniversary, thank each other and the powers that be for six - well okay actually 34 if you could the 29 year engagement - years together, hug, walk the dogs and go to the Lieutenant's Pump for breakfast.  Beats the heck out of candy, iron or wood!

          Just before we exchanged our vows, our Reesie decided he wanted to be picked up.
          Laurent has a picture of the three of us and further memories of the day on his blog.

          Happy Anniversary P....l from P.....g.

          July 21 - 356 BC: The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, is destroyed by arson.

          Saturday, July 20, 2013

          Salzburger Zeitung 2013 - Post Script




           Dateline:  July 20, 2013: 

          A few final comments on this year and next years' Festivals and then probably another of those prolonged silences I've now become known for.

          As with any festival there are bound to be highs and lows - not always the fault of the artists or the artistic director doing the programming.  What often looks good on paper falls flat when realized.  Of the seven events we took in a this year's Pfingstfestspeil I can honestly say the the highs set the bar at such a level that in many other venues the lows would have been considered highs.

          The highlights?  Do you have to ask?  It will be a long time before I see or hear that Norma equalled and the Gubaidulina-Shostakovich double bill made me an emotional wreck. The low?  I'm afraid the Haydn Seven Last Words left me wishing I had spent the afternoon sipping Aperol Spritz on the terrace of the Cafe Bazar.  That's how high the bar was this year.  That Bartoli girl knows how to put on a damn fine festival.

          On the Sunday evening as we sat enjoying a nightcap in the Sketch Bar our friend Dr. M. showed us the prospectus for 2014.  It came as a bit of a surprise and a lively discussion broke out about the merits of returning or not.  Rossinissimo! trumpeted the title - and in her preface La Ceci waxed enthusiastic over the beloved son of Pesaro.  And frankly who better?  Much of her early reputation was built on her appearances in Il Barbiere and Cenerentola and recently she has appeared in Conte Ory and Otello.   Now as much as I love Rossini when I couple his name with Festival I think of our August trips to Pesaro.  Did I really want to come back to Salzburg in June for what I could see in August on the sun soaked shores of the Adriatic?


          Well Cenerentola is my favourite Rossini opera and I had never seen La Ceci sing Angelina; Otello is a work I've been fascinated by since I read an article in Opera News more than 50 years ago and she has put together an interesting cast (always a challenge when you need three - not the Three - tenors).   As she showed this year, she may be the artistic director and the nominal star but she surrounds herself with performers of equal star quality.  So yes we get La Ceci in Cenerentola and Otello but the supporting casts include Javier Camarena, Nichola Alaimo, John Osborn and Barry Banks.  But the programme bracketed by the two operas is even more fascinating.  Franco Fagioli singing music of Meyerbeer and Rossini; David Fray playing Rossini, Liszt, Mozart and Bach; Antonio Pappano exploring the religious Rossini - first the Stabat Mater with his Accademia di Santa Cecilia, Krassimira Stoyanova, Elina Garanca, Piotr Beczala and Erwin Schrott on the Sunday morning then the Petite Messe Solennelle with Eva Mei, Vesselina Kasarova, Lawrence Brownlee and Michele Pertusi in the afternoon; Joyce DiDonato giving us Venetian songs by a parcel of composer; and strangest of all A Grand Rossini Gala and dinner.

          That gala is the oddest item of the programme - unless you count Il Barbiere by the Salzburg Marionette Theatre, though I like to think of that as inspired - with a parade of singers that is honestly a little frightening.  Fine Bartoli, Kasarova, Ildebrando d'Arcangelo, Camerena and Michele Pertusi are remarkable in the current crop of Rossini singers; however,  as much as I love and revere them I am honestly trying to think what Agnes Baltsa, Teresa Berganza, Monstserrat Caballe, Jose Carreras, Leo Nucci and Ruggero Raimondi can possible sing at this stage of their lives.  Sometimes it is best to be left with your treasured memories. 

          As tempting as the programme looked, and Christian, our host at the Bristol, kept pointing up all the positives, we  decided that we'd go elsewhere for our musical pleasure in 2014.  Our Festival friend Dr M firmly avowed the same.  Just before leaving for Füssen on Tuesday morning we ran into the good Doctor who admitted to having just returned from the box office and they would mail his tickets to him later in the week.

          We chortled at his lack of resolve and headed out to the train station.  We would never be so weak-willed.

          July 20 - Petrarch, Italian scholar and poet is born in Arezzo (d. 1374)

          Monday, July 15, 2013

          Lunedi Lunacy

          A truly heart stopping moment:





          Many thanks to my dear Vicki for this one.

          15 July - 1823: A fire destroys the ancient Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls in Rome, Italy.

          Sunday, July 14, 2013

          Salzburger Zeitung 2013 - Seventh Edition


          Dateline:  July 14, 2013:

          Not for the first time I've saved the best at the Whitsun Festival for last.

          I will begin by saying I'm not a fan of Bellini - of the big three of bel canto he is my least favourite: #1 Rossini #2 Donizetti #3 Bellini.  Yes I know many of my friends with better music knowledge than I find my love of Rossini a case of arrested musical development but there it is.  More often than not Bellini bores me:  in La Sonnambula I find myself almost as comatose as its eponymous heroine (oh come on now she was sleepwalking when she wandered into a big butch bass-baritone's bedroom?) and I Puritani is only one of two operas I've walked out of in 61 years of opera going.  Sorry, poor old Elvira - what the hell sort of name is that for a Puritan girl? - going mad once is okay - twice no dice!  I Capuletti e Montecchi - okay that one I love, it's fast, it's furious and it's filled with great music.  Il Pirata, Beatrice di Tenda and La Stangeria - well let's admit it there's a reason they aren't revived all that often.

          That leaves only the biggie:  Norma.   And I'm not all that crazy about it - give me Lucia di Lammamoor in her blood stained nightgown or Maria Stuarda in her soon to be blood stained nightgown but Norma running around cutting mistletoe and mooning over some Roman.   As we use to say in Rome:  boh!

          And there in doth lie a slight problem.  In those 61 years of opera going there are two performances that rank in the top 10 I've seen - both of them of ....    Norma!

          Back in 1974 at the Roman Theatre in Orange Montserrat Caballe fought a Mistral to sing what she - without exaggeration  I believe - claimed to be the greatest performance of her life.  The score that night was Monstie 1 - Mistral 0.

          The triumphant curtain calls - Josephine Veasey, Montserrat Caballe and Jon Vickers acknowledge
          the cheering, bravoing audience at that legendary 1974 Norma in Orange. When I watch the video
          of that evening I like to think that I can actually hear my own bravos over the rest!
          In the shadow of Augustus Caesar, as the orchestra struggled to read flapping scores clothes-pinned to their music stands,  Caballe, Jon Vickers and Josephine Veasey generated drama and excitement that has stayed in my mind's ear and eye for almost 50 years.  This was opera in the grand old style that was starting to disappear even back then - more about voice than staging.  Given those great voices how could it not have been?

          Pollione - Jon Vickers (top left, bottom right)   Norma - Montserrat Caballe (top and bottom right)
           Adalgisa - Josephine Veasey (bottom left) * Orange 1974.
          They were big glorious voices pouring out torrents of sound, fighting the elements and displaying the power of the human voice to convey emotion and drama.  It was thrilling!  And it was Grand Opera at its grandest!

          Fast forward to this year's Whitsun Festival and a Norma that could not have been more different but in its own way was one of the most exciting evenings I've spent at the opera.

          Friday May 17: LiebesOPFER
          Haus für Mozart: 1900

          Before the ink had dried on the Festival prospectus the opera blogs were awash with "opera-lovers" damning Cecilia Bartoli's announcement that she would be singing Norma at this year's Whitsun Festival.  The cries of sacrilege that she would even try to sing a role which belonged - do you hear me BELONGED - to the long gone Maria Callas arose from lips that where still suckling at their mother's breast when Callas retired from the stage.  Her voice is too small!  She doesn't have the technique!  Her voice is too small!  She's too mannered!  Her voice is too small!  She doesn't have the nobility! She's too small!  If the blogasphere was to be believed it was going to be a bigger disaster than ... than... well any other role that Bartoli had sung that they from the comfort of their mostly Manhattan bedsits had seen on YouTube.  This disdain for La Ceci seems to be in not only North American centred but particularly New Yorkcentric and emits from opera "lovers" who, I would hazard a guess, have never seen her live.

          Now like them I have seen La Ceci on video and agree that she has mannerisms that in close up can be irritating and like every singer she has her quirks and ticks both physically and vocally.  My only experience with her on stage was in concert in Roma.  That evening she played the role of the "diva" - and we were her adoring subjects.  And frankly I had own doubts about how suitable she would be in a role I normally associate with grand divas of a different sort.

          Cecilia Bartoli as Norma, the spirit of Anna Magnani was never far from the surface in her riveting portrayal.  Untraditional vocally and dramatically it was none-the-less a great interpretation.
          But this was to be a Norma with a difference.  It was a new critical edition by Maurizio Biondi and Riccardo Minasi going back to the original Bellini manuscript in the Conservatorio Santa Cecilia in Rome.  The allocation of voices was to reflect more closely what is known about the singers that created the roles.  And the orchestration was more in tune with the forces available at the period rather than the larger orchestras that were to come into fashion shortly thereafter.  Two hundred years of changes and "improvements" were to be removed to come as close as possible to Bellini's intentions.  Musically it was the equivalent of the house cleaning that had previously largely been done with Rossini but is now being extended to other composers of the bel canto. 

          Norma (Bartoli) is first approached by Pollione (John Osborn) as teachers are led away and the local school is closed by the occupying forces.  One of the few examples of dumb show I've every seen that actually worked.

          A clean slate musically obviously would call for a clean slate dramatically; I will admit that I cringed when I saw the first production photos on the Salzburg website.  It was to be a modern production by the team of Moshe Leiser and Patrice Caurier, Bartoli's preferred directing team.  I had not imagined the flapping canvas oak trees of the ottocento and frankly the thought of Bartoli in pseudo-druid draperies and laurel leave crown was slightly risible.  But was I ready for updating to more recent times?  Was this going to be another one of those regie-theatre concepts with barbed wire sets and Nazis in great coats so beloved in Germanic countries? 


          Leader of the local Resistance, Oroveso (Michele Pertusi) cautions his followers to wait for a signal from his daughter, Norma.

          Yes there was a directors' concept and, thankfully, no there were no great coats or swastikas. Norma takes places in Roman occupied Gaul: Leiser and Caurier gave us an occupied country, perhaps France, in the 1940s.  The forces of the occupiers appeared briefly in a dumb show prologue in the schoolroom where Norma is the principal and she and Pollione meet for the first time.  After the school has been closed it is to become the meeting place for the Resistance Movement led by Oroveso (Michele Pertusi).  There was one brief reference to Nazi-style helmets but honestly it could have been any occupied country at any time in recent history - Laurent said he thought it almost had a Balkan look to it.  What is important is the dramatic thrust that it gave Romani's somewhat formula love-triangle.  Suddenly it became the very modern story of a woman who had slept with the enemy and secretly betrayed her people and one of her young country women who was about to (or in this version did) make the same mistake.   The bond between the two women became central to everything - Mira Norma wasn't about two sportive ladies showing their vocal chops but two desperate woman in a situation neither of them knew how to get out of.  It was music drama at its finest - in a bel canto opera!!!!!


          Adalgisa (Rebeca Olvera) confesses to Norma that she has been seduced and fallen in love with one of the occupying army.  Norma knows only too well the emotion.

          A great deal of that drama came from the change of voices from what has become traditional in Norma over the past two centuries.   Rebeca Olvera (Adalgisa) has a light soprano voice - I kept thinking Norina or Adina, both parts sung by Giulia Grisi the creator of Adalgisa - perfect for the young, inexperienced girl who is so easily seduced by the suave Roman soldier.  And seductive John Osborn (Pollione) was in tone and demeanor; though there was a certain sleazy cruelty to his seduction - you almost felt that if he didn't get his way he would take it!  But it was in the final duets with Bartoli that he gave his best vocally and dramatically - matching her and making the change of heart almost believable.

          In the dramatic trio that ends the first act Norma realizes that the man that has seduced Adalgisa is the father of her children. 
          As remarkable as Olvera and Osborn were the opera is after all called Norma and as I said even I had reservations about Bartoli assuming the role.  I need not have worried - in this production, this edition and at this time she was Norma!  Were the vocal mannerisms there?  At times yes but only during a few of the rapid fire colouratura passages did they become apparent.   If the Casta Diva was not the show stopper - despite attempts to do so by some die-hard Bartolinis* - it was because in the context of the staging it was only part of a larger dramatic arc.  This was not a great diva spinning out lovely sounds - though the lovely sounds were there - this was a woman stalling for time to save her lover - the enemy.

          Adalgisa and Norma dream of escaping the inescapable - they have betrayed their people, their vows to the Resistance.

           The programme featured several photos of Anna Magnani and Bartoli acknowledged that she used the great actress's performance in Roma, citta aperta as a starting point for her portrayal of Norma.  Nowhere was that more evident than in Dormono entrambi,  the scena that begins Act 2.  After the harrowing revelations of the Act 1 trio we discovered Norma, disheveled, drunk on bitterness and perhaps alcohol hunched against the wall of her apartment.  The threat to her children was very real - again desperation was never very far from the surface.  This made the subsequent scene with Adalgisa even more intense and as I said Mira Norma became a foolish attempt by two scared women bound by guilt to find a solution to their impossible situation.


          Norma confronts the man who has betrayed and taunts him - she will reveal the name of his lover and he will watch as her countrymen take their revenge on her betryal.


          From there the drama swept along, irrevocably until that electrifying moment when after taunting the bound Pollione, she blurts out, not to the crowd but directly into his face, Son Io - the confession that seals her death. The subsequent appeal to her father for her children had an aching tenderness - again with a slight edge of desperation.  As Laurent said afterwards, Michele Pertusi's Oroveso may have agreed but somehow you felt these children (one an infant) would not live long after their mother and that this Norma may have felt that in her heart.

          Granted Baroli's dramatic and even vocal approach may have robbed the part of some of the "nobility" that has become associated with Norma but it was a complete exciting portrait from curtain raise until her final sacrifice.  She wasn't trying to match any of the ghosts of the past - nor did she need to - this was Bartoli's Norma.

          But as much drama as there was on stage it was equally match by the drama in the pit.  Conducting Orchestra La Scintilla, the fine period ensemble of the Zurich Opera, Giovanni Antonini seldom let the temperature or pace drop.  I understand there has been some criticism of his conducting on the album that Decca released to coincide with the Salzuburg premiere.  I purposely avoided listening to it until long after the performance and find the accusation that he pushes things unfounded either in the theatre or on disc.  There were grace moments - the introduction to Act 2,  Norma's plea to her father - but he obviously saw the score as not simply a succession of arias, duets and trios but an overall dramatic sweep of music that took us along to its tragic and fiery end

          Bound together Norma and Pollione face death in one of the most incredibly dramatic endings I've ever seen to any theatrical production in my life.
          And what an end!  Norma, her hair shorn, and Pollione were bound to chairs on a pyre of furniture, books and anything in the room that would burn.  The school room where they had met was doused in gasoline and set on fire by the betrayed Resistance.  Windows shattered and flames lept through the floor and it was as if the entire stage of the Haus für Mozart was aflame.  It was dramatic stage craft at its best - a true wedding of the music to the drama.

          I've seen  Norma as Grand Opera and I've seen Norma as Music Theatre and both experiences have  moved me to tears and had me on my feet cheering.   

          *I've yet to come across a term for the die-hard Bartoli fans so figure this will do as well as anything.

          PS:  Though Leiser and Caurier filled the production with grand moments there were some subtle pieces of staging that were impressive and suggest the work that they put into their concepts.  In the first act Pollione and his aide Flavio stole into the school room after the Resistance members had left; as his aide searched the room, Pollione took a book from a shelf, leaved through it distastefully and methodically tore out a few pages and let them fall to the floor.  Later Oroveso saw them, picked them up and gave a troubled look around the room - they were being watched!  Anyone who has ever been under surveillance will tell you that it is not uncommon for a "calling card" to be left - just to let you know that you are being observed.  An almost unnoticeable piece of business but one that added to the tension that was carefully being built up. 

          All production photos are courtesy the Salzburg Festival 
          © Hans Jörg Michel
          E-Mail: h.j.michel@web.de 

          July 14 -1902: The Campanile in St. Mark's Square, Venice collapses, also demolishing the loggetta.

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          Thursday, July 04, 2013

          Happy Fourth!!!!!


          To all my American family and friends!


          July 4 - 1862: Lewis Carroll tells Alice Liddell a story that would grow into Alice's Adventures in Wonderland and its sequels.

          Monday, July 01, 2013

          Happy Canada Day 2013

          I know that I often moan and groan about the life I left behind in Europe but every day I become more and more aware of the freedoms, rights, privileges and responsibilities that I have here in Canada.


          Yes there are things that I feel are wrong, there are things lacking but when I balance that with what is right and what is here I am thankful that I have this country to call my home.  

          July 1 - 1867: The British North America Act of 1867 takes effect as the Constitution of Canada, creating the Canadian Confederation and the federal dominion of Canada; Sir John A. Macdonald is sworn in as the first Prime Minister of Canada.