Images of Athens

I'm never really too sure who these sort of window displays are aimed at? I mean would anyone really buy stuff like this? Well okay the two women of an indeterminate age walking into the Megaton ahead of Fotis and I on Thursday night maybe! But I mean anyone other than them?

25 ottobre - I Santi Crispino e Crispiniano

Why Would Someone Do That to Melina?

Melina Merkouri (Mercouri) was an iconic presence both theatrically and politically not just in Greece but throughout the world. Many of her films are considered classics of world cinema, her recordings - she was no singer but damn she was a communicator - are still being sold, her theatrical appearances were proof of her magnetism and her fight for a free Greece reached the world. When she became Minister of Culture her achievements were many.

I have my own little bit of personal history with her - a brief meeting that enchanted me and that made me fall forever in love with her.

Its only right that there be a monument to her in Athens and though it is not in the most conspicuous of places - opposite the entrance to the Temple of Zeus on a busy street - it was a fine tribute to a great woman. You will notice the past tense - was - because for some reason someone has defaced the bust erected to celebrate her life and achievements. I don't know what possessed someone to inflict damage on it and smash the nose. Was it the deliberate act of someone who disagreed with her politically and for whom she was no hero? Or was it - as so often happens in Roma - the thoughtless act of a drunken youth out on a binge to whom she meant nothing, just a piece of someone else's property to be vandalized?
Whatever the reason I first noticed the damage over a year ago. A whole year ago! Surely someone in government - federal, state or municipal - can have something done to repair the damage. This woman who, when she was stripped of her citizenship by the Generals, proudly proclaimed "I was born a Greek! I will die a Greek!" deserves better from the country she loved and served.

24 ottobre - Sant'Antonio Maria Claret y Clara

Images of Athens

This distinguished looking member of the Orthodox clergy was sitting at the table near to mine at the Metropole Cafe in Cathedral Square this morning. I thought he had that sort of, at the least, Old Testament prophet look if not, at the most, "God the Father" himself from a few of the paintings I've seen around.

But I was not the only one impressed - an North American couple (that is the gentleman in white) of East Indian origin off one of the cruise ships were fascinated by him. There were some desperate attempts to communicate and some intriguing pantomimes and finally Spiros, one of the waiters was dragged into the little scenario playing out beside me.

"Tell him he has a divine look," the woman commanded in a tone that was not to be denied. "Tell him he's divine!"

The message was convey to the rather bemused clergyman who accepted it with a gracious nod - am I just imagining that his wife giggled a bit?

"We want his blessing," said the husband while making a vague sign of benediction in the direction of his wife and himself.

"No I want him to place his hands on my head," insisted the wife. "I want a proper blessing!"

Poor Spiros communicated this rather unusual request as the husband pulled the priest up to his feet, grabbed his hands and placed them on his wife's head. The priest muttered something in Greek - it could have been a blessing. Then repeated it for the man. The wife kissed his hand as did the husband and faces beaming they took their leave, turning to wave several times as they headed towards the Cathedral.


The priest sat down, gave me a "I'm not sure what just went on here" look and dipping his napkin in some water wiped off his hands. I am not at all sure he was that happy but there were two radiant people basking in the glow of his "blessing". And, no doubt, this evening, at dinner, they'll be recounting the experience to their table mates.

21 ottobre - San Gaspare del Bufalo

The Glory That Is Greece - The Byzantine and Christian Museum I

The current glory of Greece is, of course, the new Acropolis Museum. When we were in Athens last November they were allowing viewings of the facility as exhibitions were being put in place and even empty the interior was impressive. It is all raked glass floors, stone, multi levels and natural light illuminating an incredible collection of the glories of Ancient Greece. Sadly the exterior looks, as our friend Fotis suggests, like an alien space craft has landed in the middle of town. It just doesn't fit and we won't even go into the argument raging about destroying two historical houses to improve the view from the restaurant.

Laurent spent a few hours there the second day he was in Athens and was mightily impressed with both the collection and the displays. I decided that since I was only there for the weekend I would restrict myself to a Saturday morning snack with Fotis on the restaurant terrace. The entrance fee, until the end of the year, is 1 euro - so just popping in for a coffee and a salad is not a big deal. I will wait until a weekday on our next trip to view the collection at my leisure.

However one museum I wasn't going to pass up this time was the Byzantine and Christian Museum. I had gone looking for it in November and totally missed the huge signs indicating the entrance on the hoardings that hide it during extensive renovation. Founded in 1914 it is, perhaps, one of the finest collections of Byzantine art in the world. And as with most of the museums I have visited in Greece the curating and displays are amongst the finest I've seen anywhere. And it is staffed with pleasant and knowledgeable people who acknowledge your presence with pleasure - such a nice change from the glowering attendant who knows you are only there to steal their national treasures.

And national treasures they have!

As he did in so many places in the Byzantine world, Justinian greets you as you enter. Mosaics filled palaces, churches and public buildings throughout Byzantium and the Emperor featured in a good many of them.

The Orpheus legend was quickly associated with Christ in the early church - the descent into Hades being the link. This Orpheus has charmed many of the beasts of the field, fowls of the air and a few other strange creatures. But the lion killing the deer has yet to hear his music. That image - a hart being killed by a lion appears in many carvings of the period.

Clothing is perhaps the hardest thing to preserve given that fibers decay quickly however this 6-7th century liturgical robe is still in good condition. The embroidery, though not as elaborate as later examples, has the naive charm of folk art.

This child's tunic is wool and dates from the 6th century. As do the leather shoes, the small child's pair are unadorned but the adults are decorated with gold leaf.

I find the sculpture of the period - both the figurative and the abstract - fascinating. Again there is that image of the hart being attacked this time by a leopard. Often the faces have been hacked away either during one of the Iconoclastic periods or one of the Islamic invasions. I particularly like the work in archways and door lintels - often abstract or as here representing scenes from the Nativity.

And even the utilitarian can be made interesting - that little figure is actually a unit of weight measurement. And this candle holder has been turned into a miniature mobile to adorn the sanctuary of a church.

The Museum is housed in a lovely villa setting with the permanent collection in one building and special exhibits in another. I'll try and post something later this week about Refugee Art - an interesting but terribly sad display of objects from the forced migration of Greeks from Asia Minor in 1923.

25 luglio - San Giacomo il Maggiore

Dionysos Areopagitou 17

Yesterday afternoon as we strolled along Dionysos Areopagitou on the south side of the Acropolis we were recalling the first time we walked along there in 1998. It was a busy main street open to traffic and a horror to try and cross. Now it is a wide pedestrian boulevard with treed slopes and marble stairs giving entrance to the site. The south side of the street is lined with stylish row houses - including the Embassy of Spain - many in Art Deco or Neo-Classical style. With the building of the new Acropolis Museum the Greek Government has delisted two of these buildings - Number 17 and 19 - and are set to demolish them. They block the view from the Museum terraces (and more importantly the new restaurant) to the eponymous site.I am no expert of architecture but I think Number 17 is an incredible example of Art Deco, one of the loveliest I've seen. And though the style of the facade is Deco the features are pure Athenian - symmetrical coloured marble panels, two caryatids supporting and lighting the entrance way and two mythological mosaics at the roof line. They are a perfect early 20th century interpretation of Classic Greek design.
There has been an effort on an International level to save these houses that, though not as venerable as their neighbour across the street, still are a piece of Athenian history. Unfortunately our Greek is almost - okay completely - non-existent so we could not tell from the information posted on the door if the preservation campaign has had any success.

As interesting as the new museum is - and I'll be writing more about it tomorrow - it would be a shame to see this lovely building destroyed for the sake of a dining room view.

27 novembre - San Primitivo

Parlo di Piu e del Meno

• According to Blue the in-flight magazine for Aegean Airlines 2008 has been declared the year of the Feta by the Greek Government! Greek cheese manufactures have been up in arms over the imitation feta coming out of Denmark, Holland and Germany the past few years. It’s a billion dollar industry worldwide so the financial stakes are high and Greek producers are worried about cheap imitations that pass themselves off as the real thing. Feta marketing is going into full swing in Greece and throughout Europe. The new EU safeguards on Feta labelling – wouldn’t you have loved to hear that resolution, no doubt defining percentage of water, salt and curd content, read onto the order paper – guarantee that within Europe only Greek Feta can bear the proud name. Look for the πραγματική ελληνική φέτα on the label.

Parsi took us for lunch at a wonderful place called Cinnamon - traditional Greek with a twist. As you can see we dug in.

• Yes we have recycling here in Rome and many of us collect our plastic, paper and other recyclables to put in the handy bins on the streets. The problem appears to be that the city forgets to collect them.

• I now feel that I have finally arrived in Rome. I have become a regular customer at a barber shop at the bottom of Via Nazionale. I first went there because it was close to the language school and open. There are two barbers – Walter, an older bespectacled gentleman with a trim goatee and an air of ownership, Mimo, a younger more casual gentleman with a permanent tan and an artful comb over – and Luisa, an extremely attractive full-figured lady, who does the manicures, scalp massages and general reception and clean-up.
  
  I was made to feel welcome, despite a struggle with language, from the first time I walked in off the street. Mimo is my barber - Walter only deals with former Prime Minister Prodi, President Napolitano and the older long-time clients. But that’s fine because Mimo does an exceptional job with my fastly thinning hair. Luisa makes sure the nails are trimmed and glossy and gives the most relaxing scalp message immaginable. All the little formalities are observed – we shake hands on arrival and departures, health of my colleague (Laurent, who also goes there now) is always enquired after and the proper greetings and wishes for any approaching festival are exchanged. And we even have our little jokes about my bad Italian and Luisa’s emerging English.
  
  The day before we left for Athens I noticed that is was “almost time to buy a violin” as my mother use to say. As we were going to opening night at the opera with Parsi on the Friday I felt a haircut was in order. I dropped into the barber shop to see if they could take me after school at 4:30 but Mimo was booked up from 2 until 6. Luisa did a bit of fiddling, some frowning, then told me to come back at 4:15 and sent me on my way with a cheery “a presto.” I arrived back at 4:15 and somehow someone had been pushed back, someone else had been pushed forward and I was cut, manicured and massaged.
  
  When a man's barber does that for him, he knows he's arrived wherever he is.

• And a final sign from Athens. When Parsi took us to lunch in the newly redeveloped Gaz area we saw this sign on a building near the restaurant. Anyone want to guess what it is?

25 marzo - Annunciazione del Signore

The Italian Girl in Athens!

In the past two months I've had the pleasure of meeting two blog buddies. Last month Aaron from Meanwhile was visiting Rome and we were able to meet for lunch and a bit of a wander. On Friday Laurent and I spent an enjoyable evening with one the premiere opera bloggers around: Parsi from Parsifal.

In an e-mail I had mentioned that I would be in Athens this week and asked if anything operatic was on the books. Not only was Rossini's L'Italiana in Algeri (The Italian Girl in Algiers) premiering Friday night but the great Greek Mezzo Agnes Baltsa would be singing the lead role of Isabella. And a friend of his had two extra tickets and if we would be interested..... Would we! Damn right!

I'll likely post a review later in the week - too much to see here to spend time in the hotel room blogging - but it was a great evening, spent with great people. And that would be Miss Baltsa taking a moment to pose with a fan at the opening night reception.

Thanks Parsi for including us in a wonderful evening. And remember Rome, Muti, Otello, December!

16 marzo - Delle Palme

Psiri Signs II

For all my Mac friends and those of us who admired those marvelous signs but were totally confused by them, my blog buddy Parsi helped out by sending this comment:

Ok, let me help you with this:
1. An instrument maker
2. A box maker (who is called Menelaos, I suppose there must also be an Agamemnon around)
3. Just a bar
4. Just a bar (and a very trendy bar indeed).
5. A place where you can buy a kompoloi (its a string with little balls on it that you play in your hands, I know what you 're thinking, no!!! nothing sexual!!!).
6. A taverna with live music
7. A taverna without live music

As to number 5 I'm shocked he would even think that such thoughts would cross our minds. And Elizabeth, close but no cigar. Hmm I wonder what a cigar makers sign would look like?

16 marzo - Delle Palme

Psiri Signs

According to Matt Barrett's Greece Survival Guide – our source for all things about Greece – Psiri, the area just north of the Acropolis and the Agora is becoming the new Plaka. Shops, eateries and bars are setting up in the area and it is the new place to be in Athens.

Certainly the art of the shop sign is still being practiced along the various narrow streets and alley ways. Lettering is normally in Greek but normally the picture will tell you what the craft or speciality is. Though I must admit in a few cases here I’m totally mystified. (Scroll over a picture for a title.)



13 marzo - Santa Patrizia

Parlo del Piu e del Meno

Just some odds and ends - separated by a few of those leftover pictures from last year.

The Temple of Aecespius at the Villa Borghese in August.

• Next week I head off to London for a few days - 1 cent euro each way on Ryanair plus Euro 48.98 in taxes and services fees for a grand total of Euro 50.00 . I've heard some bad things about them but at that price as long as its got wings and a good safety record I'll try it. Oh did I mention I'm deathly afraid of flying - yes 33 years in the airline business and I'm terrified every minute I'm on a plane.

From our balcony - terraces and the Pines of Rome.

• Why London? To visit my friend Deb and her SO James for a few days and take Deb to lunch at the Fountain Room at Fortnum and Mason's and the Panto at the Old Vic. Its become a tradition - if you can call twice a tradition. Last time it was tea at the Savoy and Sir Ian McKellan playing Aladdin's mother, this year it's Stephen Fry's version of the Cinderella story and some very camp carryings-on. I'll blog about that later.

Towards the Foro from the restored Mercato di Trainao.

• The following week I'm planning to join Laurent in Athens. He's going for work, I'm going to wander around the Plaka, drink ouzo and check out some of Matt Barrett's helpful suggestions on restaurants etc. Matt has never been wrong where Athens is concerned.

A galleria in the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele.

• Since the truckers' strike last month food prices have gone up here anywhere from 10 to 20% depending on the product. And after the December taxi strikes our beloved Mayor Walter "Give 'em bread and circuses" Veltroni has announced that taxi fares will go up 18% with a new Euro 2 surcharge for taxis from the railway station. Wine, however will remain the bargain it has always been. Some things you just don't screw around with!

Almost finished polishing our balls.

• And Wally V. has also announced that Euro 2 billion and a workforce of approximately 5,000 will be thrown at the city parking problem. By 2010 there should be 41,000 new parking spots. Of course by then there should be 100,000 additional cars.

The table set for Christmas Dinner

• I finally got tickets for Tosca - showed up at the Box Office on Tuesday and nabbed 4 seats for the Sunday matinee. Its the first cast so I'm happy with that - explanation: since performances are given on successive nights here they often have two, sometimes three, casts alternating. Sunday will be the same singers as Opening Night - including Marcelo Alvarez and Renato Bruson - so I'm quite content.

10 gennaio - San Aldo