Christmasy Things - Polish Presepe

Yes I know, Christmas is over and the Valentine's stuff is in the shops already - only one month to buy that special someone that special something - but here the spirit of Christmas or at least some of the trimmings last until February 2, Feast of the Presentation in the Temple. In the Church of England we called it Candlemas and it was the day on which all the candles to be used for the liturgical year were blessed, quite a lovely ritual. But I digress - as I sometimes do, back to the 39 or so days of Christmas.

Part of those trimmings are the Presepe or crèches that are displayed in churches throughout the city. Some are pretty cheesy - vulgar plaster statues encircled with flashing Christmas lights - but others are works of art. Entire villages are constructed - often with Bethleham resembling the area around the church they were created for, the Presepe at San Marcello has gas lamps much like the ones that once light the nearby Corso. Many date from the 19th century or earlier and figurines wear elaborate clothing meticulously aping the fashion of the period.

It stands to the reason that at the wonder that is the Pantheon (Chiesa di Santa Santa Maria dei Martiri)they would have an almost life size Presepe. It was created by art students from the Leon Wyczolkowski School of Fine Arts in Bydgoszcz (Poland as some thoughtful person added to the billboard.)


Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

Even if our friend Larry hadn't told me I would have known this was Polish immediately. The colourings are similar to those of the traditional Polish crèches and it has that rather disconcerting influence of Social Realism left over from the good old days of Communism that still echos in certain schools of Polish art. The exception is the Bambino - Jesus bears a striking resemblance to the slightly bloated figures of Botero. There may not have been room at the inn but there appears to have been food.

Also a little unusual are the figures on the right of the tableau - four "modern" saints coming to worship with the traditional Shepherds and Wise Men. I can only identify Saint Teresa the Little Flower of Christ and try as he might Larry couldn't put a name to the other three either.

13 gennaio - San Ilario di Poitiers

Christmasy Things - Angels and Shepherds

Las Pastorelas - Cristina Garcia Rodero - 1987.

Even before I saw the caption on this postcard I was reminded of our first Christmas outside Canada. It was 1986 and Laurent had been posted to Mexico City that August. I headed down in mid-December for the holiday season. We have so many great memories of that Christmastide, though at the time the episodes with the turkey and the backfiring Roman candle didn't seem so funny. But more about them another time.

As with most countries Mexico had its Christmas traditions, many of them Spanish in origin but made richer by the Otomi and other native cultures. One particularly Mexican tradition is the Pastorelas or Shepherd's plays that were presented during Christmas. A transplant from Spain they tell the story of the Shepherds and their journey to Bethlehem. A journey made perilous by the Devil, who attempts to thwart them at every turn. Told in verse, song, dance and laced with jokes and slapstick routines it always ends with the defeat of old Satan and his bumbling cohorts (what a surprise) and the Shepherds and audience coming together to adore the Christ Child. In a few places it is completed by Las Posadas - a candle lit procession ending in food, drink, pinatas and often fireworks. It was a tradition we embraced wholeheartly in the time we were there.

30 dicembre - San Ruggero di Canne

Christmasy Things IIIb

I did not buy the monkey's head ornament!
But I was tempted by the polar bear. But I didn't. Aren't you proud of me?

07 dicembre - Sant'Ambrogio di Milano

Christmasy Things IIIa

Oh and did I mention the pig?
I'm sorry but every tree needs a pig as a symbol of good health, happiness and prosperity for the coming year. I really don't know how we managed for the past 30 years without one. It was, you see, an necessity not a frivolity! But that's it, honest!

06 dicembre - San Nicola di Bari

Christmasy Things II

Christmas is definitely in the air here in Rome - I say here in Rome but I'm writing this a few thousand feet in the air on our way from Roma to Monaco di Baverie (Munich). The weather has been chilly and since the first dip in the temperature Romans have been wearing their parkas, scarfs and gloves . You can tell the tourists right off the mark - they're the ones in shorts and cotton tops being stared at incredulously by the bundled up populace. I've found that this year - unlike last - the cold is getting to me too and I'm bundling up like an native. Either I'm adapting or just getting old. I, of course, am firmly believing the first.

The chestnut sellers are on the street corners, flower stands, balconies and gardens are blooming with the scarlet, mauve and white of cyclamens (the winter annual of choice here), every day more and more shop windows are displaying their Christmas glory and the prescepe (crèche) figures are appearing in stalls throughout town.
This particularly bizarre looking baby Jesus was in a shop window in the Corso area. Is it just me or does he look just a bit coked out? Mind you if my mother decked me out in that outfit I wouldn't be too pleased either. And that cow looks like its cud has something other than oats in it. The stalls at the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona have the biggest selection of figurines and accoutrement for your nativity scene. Everything from hay mounds to gutted fish is available to give your prescepe that authentic look. Though its tempting to start collecting I think we'll stay with our simpler Polish creche

In fact we should be putting a hold on buying any more Christmas decorations. Having said that where are we heading? Why Munich, of course. And what's there? Well several of the biggest Christmas markets in Europe. But I promise we won't be buying anything. Honest! I promise!

05 dicembre - Beato Guido Maria Confort

Christmasy Things I

Last year I posted a series on our Christmas traditions and I don't want to repeat myself but I thought a little updating on the odd Christmasy Thing or two wouldn't be amiss. So I'll be doing that during the weeks of Advent leading up to Christmas.

And speaking of Advent my dear friend Larry at AmoRoma is keeping up a tradition he started last year - can two years be a tradition? I think so. Last year he created an Internet Advent Calender. Each day he posted a Roman window and one of the "O" antiphons for the season. This year, from December 1st - 24th, he'll post a picture of a different door that he's seen in Rome and a verse taken from Handel's Messiah.

And again this year I've posted a sidebar link to Larry's Advent Calender for anyone who'd like to join us in this tradition. And that would be Vincenzo, the other half of the team, inviting you to open a new door each day. Thanks Larry for keeping up the tradition.

And speaking of Advent Calenders the folks over at Sellmer are still producing wonderful advent calenders like this charming one of Old Stuttgart. Many are reproductions of favorites from years past including one of the Christkindlmarkt at the Marienplatz in Munich. I may buy one for next year but in the meantime Laurent and I will be heading up there this weekend to experience the Christmas Market first hand.

01 dicembre - San Egilio