Christmasy Things II

Christmas is definitely in the air here in Rome - I say here in Rome but I'm writing this a few thousand feet in the air on our way from Roma to Monaco di Baverie (Munich). The weather has been chilly and since the first dip in the temperature Romans have been wearing their parkas, scarfs and gloves . You can tell the tourists right off the mark - they're the ones in shorts and cotton tops being stared at incredulously by the bundled up populace. I've found that this year - unlike last - the cold is getting to me too and I'm bundling up like an native. Either I'm adapting or just getting old. I, of course, am firmly believing the first.

The chestnut sellers are on the street corners, flower stands, balconies and gardens are blooming with the scarlet, mauve and white of cyclamens (the winter annual of choice here), every day more and more shop windows are displaying their Christmas glory and the prescepe (crèche) figures are appearing in stalls throughout town.
This particularly bizarre looking baby Jesus was in a shop window in the Corso area. Is it just me or does he look just a bit coked out? Mind you if my mother decked me out in that outfit I wouldn't be too pleased either. And that cow looks like its cud has something other than oats in it. The stalls at the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona have the biggest selection of figurines and accoutrement for your nativity scene. Everything from hay mounds to gutted fish is available to give your prescepe that authentic look. Though its tempting to start collecting I think we'll stay with our simpler Polish creche

In fact we should be putting a hold on buying any more Christmas decorations. Having said that where are we heading? Why Munich, of course. And what's there? Well several of the biggest Christmas markets in Europe. But I promise we won't be buying anything. Honest! I promise!

05 dicembre - Beato Guido Maria Confort

The Traditions of Christmas - A Lump of Coal in Your Stocking

When I was a child - back in the middle of the last century - one thing always appeared amongst the oranges, small games and hard candies in my Christmas stocking: a lump of coal. Why a lump of coal? That was for the times I'd been naughty and to remind me that if I had been good all year there would have been another gift worthy of a good little boy. Sort of a cruel Christmas guilt trip to lay on a kid which frankly didn't work. By the time Laurent and I started exchanging stockings coal had become a thing of the past and impossible to find - though one year I did find candles shaped like a lump of coal. And this year I hit the mother-lode.


Last evening, after one of Signora Paola's dinners at Trattoria der Pallardo, we took a stroll through the Christmas Fair at Piazza Navona with our friends Lorraine and John. It wasn't as crowded as we thought it would be and even though it was early by Roman standards - 2130 - some of the stalls where closing. We wandered into the beautiful Church of Santa Agnese in Agone, reputedly built on the site of the brothel that the Saint had been sold into, and happened upon a chamber quartet playing one of the Corelli Christmas concerti.

Afterwards we wandered back into the Piazza and there they were: lumps of coal! A veritable vein of carbon piled into a pyramid amongst the sugared almonds, marzipan and fruit jellies at a candy stall. Carbonne dolci (Candy coal) that the vendor said was for the stockings of Le donne cative (Naughty ladies.) Given the history of the area during Roman times, it seemed highly appropriate. I'm sure its pure sugar and will rot teeth on contact but each of our dinner guests will be getting a lump of coal in their Christmas stocking. And Laurent will be getting an extra big one.

As for me -sadly I didn't buy enough but then I've been a really good boy this year!

22 decembre - Santa Francesca Cabrini

The Traditions of Christmas - Christmas Fairs

The Christmas Fair had just opened at Piazza Navona on Friday when Joanne and I were on our stroll. It is one of many in Roma, and only some of the booths and rides were operating but families and school groups were already showing up.

As well as children's toys and Christmas trinkets, stalls are selling figurines, buildings, trees, moss, lights - everything you need for your own Presepe.

A familiar figure reminds us that a Christmas Fair is after all a commercial event.

The Fountain of the Four Rivers is undergoing a much needed cleaning and restoration.

Not sure if its just me, but as colourful as this carousel may be, it needs children to give it life.

And of course, being Rome, there has to be candy and sweet stalls.

10 decembre - Nostra Signora di Loretto