The Descent of the Holy Spirit

Heilig-Geist-Kirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) in Munich; the original building dates from the 14th century but it has undergone changes, renovation and after severe bomb damage in World War II restoration.

You could be forgiven for thinking these photos are outtakes from Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds or that a flock of errant doves had found their way out of Marienplatz and into Munich's Heilig-Geist-Kirche. But it turns out it was only the parish's way of celebrating the Feast of Pentecost (Pfingsten) and the descent of the Holy Spirit.

However it wasn't the only "modern" touch amidst the splendors of the Brothers Asam's rococo decorations; I was struck by the simple design of the very modern pulpit.  Though it is a stark contrast to much of the decorations, in my opinion it neither jars nor clashes with the ornate plaster, gilt and 17th century images.

The seated Christ figure surrounded by the grapes of the Eucharist seems to be relating a parable to the assemble congregation.  A dove, symbolizing the Holy Spirit, hovers above on the tester or canopy and God the Father and the Four Evangelists are on the back panel - the Trinity guiding and hopefully inspiring the preacher.

The Four Evangelists with their respective iconography reappear on the railing of the stairs leading into the pulpit.  Perhaps a reminder to a preacher as he climbed up to delivery his sermon of the source of his message.

The eagle of St John the Evangelist is said to represent the more spiritual aspect
of his gospel.  In it the Ascension and the divinity of Christ are emphasized.  It
was believed the eagle could fly into the sun without flinching from its brightness.

An angel gives divine inspiration to St Mathew, the first gospel writer.  His words
begin with the genealogy and birth of Jesus and emphasis his human nature.

The lion of St Mark has many meanings in Christian iconography.  It was believed
that lions were born dead and came to life in three days and that they slept with
their eyes open - ever watchful.  And of course they were the King of beasts.

As well as the Gospel attributed to him St Luke is said to be the author of the
Acts of the Apostles.  The bull represents sacrifice - the sacrifice of Jesus
and the sacrifice expected of all Christians.

I haven't been able to find out much about the history of this pulpit - who carved it and when it was dedicated nor can I identify the wood.  If anyone knows anything about it I'd be glad to have the information.

June 15 - 1520:  Pope Leo X threatens to excommunicate Martin Luther in the papal bull Exsurge Domine.

Grazie Felice, Sono Felice Ma Non Felice!

I had a post almost finished for yesterday but then something wonderful happened in the morning that I felt I wanted to share.

The title of this post is a little play on names and words - Felice is, of course, a Christian name here in Italy but it also means "happy". So the title is three pronged.  My friend and colleague Felice did something yesterday morning that made me both happy (felice) but also sad (non felice).  Over the past few weeks and in the next few weeks these are emotions that I am finding, and given my slightly emotional nature will find, constantly overlapping. 

Over a year ago I put up a post about Felice and his remarkable gift as a woodcarver. It has proven an often read item.  In the last paragraph I promised that I would do something more about the artist and his work.  Somehow time crept up and I never did get around to it until now just as I am saying goodbye to Felice, his wife Anna and friends and at the Embassy.

He asked if I would be free for coffee in the morning as he would like to meet before he left on vacation and I left the country.  So yesterday morning we met and headed over to the Australian Bar (dont' ask!) for a capucc.  He was carrying something enshrouded in a pair of long winter socks and when we sat down he gave it to me and said very quietly, as is his nature,  "I made this for you, I hope you will like it?" 

Like it?  I love it!

What I unwrapped was this beautiful hand carved olive wood walking stick.  Felice had worked it from a piece of wood from a tree that had been cut down in the gardens of Villa Grandi, the residence of our Ambassador.  It is over a hundred years old and what I can't convey about it either in pictures or words is the feel and scent of this incredible wood.  Running my hands over it I could feel the age and strength of the wood and the work that went into it.  And the oils in my hands seemed to release the subtle scent of olive. And as I am writing this it sits on the table in front of me ever so slightly perfuming the summer air.

I can honestly say that as moved as I was by the feel and the scent of the wood and remarkable artistry that had gone into the piece what touched me most was the warmth of the gift and the person giving it.

Caro Felice mille grazie for the happiness that you have given me with this present.  I know that I join a small group of fortunate people who have been gifted with the work of your hands and heart.  It will remind me of the beauty of both this place and more importantly the beauty of the people I have come to know here.

 06 luglio - Santa Maria Goretti

The Woodcarver's Art

Anyone who has read this blog with any regularity (both of you) will know that I have this love affair with wood working. For me it has always held more of a fascination than marble or stucco, as wonderful as they are. Perhaps because, to my mind at least, unlike the other two, wood is a living breathing thing. Of course Rome is the wrong city to be in for wood; this is a city of marble and plaster in baroque perfusion. So I am always intrigued when I come across examples of the wood carvers art. And even more intrigued when it is art created by someone I know.

Felice, a work colleague, came into my office a few weeks back to share a few pictures with me. He is both a gentleman and a gentle man and as I discovered a man of great talent. He has taken up wood carving and is largely self-taught in the art. The photos he shared with me were of two pieces he carved as gifts for Canadian friends.

This beautiful sheathed dagger was created from two different pieces of olive wood. The darker piece is older – perhaps over a hundred years old if not more – and had been sitting in a friend's yard for a long time when Felice discovered it. It was exactly the wood he had been looking for – a fitting contrast to the lighter coloured piece of young olive that he had found one day on a mountain near Monte Cassino.

As he told me often the search for the right piece of wood can be a task in itself. Though he had a basic design in mind he says the wood – the grain, the bend, the shape - eventually dictated the form that the dagger and sheath took. Even as he works on a piece he finds that his concept will change almost as if the wood itself is telling him what is in it.
To bring up the grain in the wood he hand rubbed it with linseed oil with particularly beautiful results in piece carved from the older wood. Felice spoke about how only natural oils or waxes should be used on wood, not only to bring up the grain and enrich the colour but to allow it to breath. Holding a beautiful piece of oiled or waxed wood is a tactile experience that is missing when it has been sealed with varnish, shellac or urethane.

This small mask was carved from a piece of African chestnut - a hard wood often used in flooring and though similar in appearance not a relative of the North American variety. It is not the easiest material to work with but at the time Felice was still new at wood carving and he liked the colour and grain. Though it proved a difficult medium he treated it as part of the experience of learning his craft - I think with great success.

Another thing he learned while creating this pieces was that when carving a face it is better to work symmetrically. He began by completing one side of the face and then the other – working as it were vertically. After he had worked on it a while he realized that this method had its drawbacks - it would have been easier to work horizontally.

I find it interesting to see the development of the mask as it is traced in these photos from its rough concept through to its completed state. The finish on this particular piece was beeswax - again a subtle highlighter of the grain, colour and more importantly the life in the wood.

I always find it remarkable that an artist - and Felice is an artist - can take a piece of wood and in it find the inspiration for pieces like this. I'm looking forward to him sharing more of his work with me so I can share it with you.

30 luglio - San Pietro Crisologo