Willy or Won't He?: Sant'Andrea della Valle

Thursday, December 06, 2007

Across the River to the See

Yesterday was an beautiful day - sunny not too cold but cool enough that a fleece jacket was required. So clad in my Lands End fleece I headed down to Teatro dell' Opera in Centro and then across the Tiber for only the second time in five months. A slight digression - this time of year it is not unusual to see tourists lightly dressed in Centro while the locals are bundled up in ski jackets, scarfs, hats and gloves. I'm somewhere in between but still get looks in my neighbourhood - knowing Nonne at the Seniors Park shake their collective heads fully aware that I am courting my death so lightly dressed.

The trip across the river was that mail run to the Vatican Post Office with the Christmas cards I mentioned. The friendly clerk, he'd have not future with the Italian Postal Service, assured me that there was still sufficient time for cards to get to their various destinations. Service was quick, the stamps colourful and lets admit it some Aunts will be thrilled more with the fact that the envelope bears the Vatican stamp than the card inside.

While I was there I decided to stop off for lunch at an osteria on Borgo Pio a few steps from St Peter's. I can never remember the name of the place but I do remember the location. Laurent and I ended up there for dinner that damp and fog first night we were in Rome back in 1999. And our first meal - the first of many - with our good friend Robert was a lunch there on that same trip. Both times I had the Spaghetti alla Carbonara and it set the standard. Eight years later I still think its up there with the best.

I also took the opportunity to do a mini-Tosca pilgrimage: Castel Sant'Angelo and the Church of Sant'Andrea della valle - Palazzo Farnase is now the French Embassy so that's out of bounds.