Friday, June 15, 2012

Travels with Sidd - Not Really Ornaments

Honestly the charming items in these photos aren't really Christmas ornaments - they are local handicrafts. I mean we all know that two posts ago I made a vow that no more Christmas ornaments would enter our house and I have had every intention of holding true to that vow. But honestly it was all Sidd's fault.


I can't claim to be an authority on the link between elves and gnomes but I do know that Finland claims to be the home of Santa Claus so for all I know some of Sidd's relatives work in the old guy's shop way above the 60th parallel. Whatever the link may be Sidd seemed very much at home in Helsinki today. As we wandered through the Kauppatori Market Square - conveniently located just after we got off the boat - there were wonderful stalls with all manner of wares - fruit, flowers, vegetables, fish and local handicrafts. Strangely for him Sidd didn't spend much time admiring the displays of tasty dishes available at the small tent restaurants but he was drawn - twice - to one craft display. An elderly lady was busily cutting willow branches on the diagonal making thin almost scale like ovals. She then fashioned them into pine cones and balls that could, if you stretched your imagination, be hung on a tree come Christmastide.


Sidd settled himself amongst them and wouldn't move until I bought one or two or three! But not for our tree you have to understand, the four or five I bought are for friends. Well okay the one that Sidd bought and proffered as a gift will be on the tree - I mean after all when a gnome gives you a handicraft from the land of Santa Claus can you really refuse?

15 June - 1219: Danish victory at the Battle of Lyndanisse (modern-day Tallinn) establishes the Danish Duchy of Estonia. According to legend, this battle also marks the first use of the Dannebrog, the world's first national flag still in use, as the national flag of Denmark.

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Thursday, June 14, 2012

Have a Cigar!

As my friend Ron once suggested when we were strolling through the streets of Roma, you have to look up to see the unusual. And as I've often found that applies when walking through most cities in Europe. I hadn't been looking up as we walked along Leidsestraat in Amsterdam I would have seen the fascinating displays in the Gant store but missed these charming friezes  on what was once a cigar makers shop.




Now I'm not advocating child labour, nor do I approve of children smoking cigars but this industrious little group, under the tutelage of a cherubic Mercury, seem pretty knowledgeable in the art of making a good cigar.


I noticed that though none of them seem to have taken to the addictive weed when they've finished their work they seem to know how to enjoy the fruits of the vine!

My friend MJ tells me that there was a time when it was cheaper - and in times of war politically more expedient - for plantation owners in the Southern United States to send their tobacco to Holland rather than England for processing. 


14 June -1789: HMS Bounty mutiny survivors including Captain William Bligh and 18 others reach Timor after a nearly 7,400 km (4,600 mi) journey in an open boat.


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Travels with Sidd - Smoking

It would almost seem that our Sidd is fascinated with food more than anything else, something that Lara hadn't mentioned when she left him in my care. During our stop on the Danish island of Bornholm he decided that he'd hang around the local smoke houses and try a few of the delicacies.


In the village of Hasle, a quick bus ride from the main port town of Ronne, he found one of the few remaining herring smoke houses left on the island. There was a time when the coast was lined with these squat buildings distinguishable by the two chimneys of the smoke ovens, however the presence of large trawlers in the area has meant overfishing and a ban that has led to the decimation of the local fishing industry. Harbours that once teamed with small fishing boats are now filled with pleasure craft as holiday tourism takes over as the main industry on this green and pleasant outcropping in the Baltic.


 Sidd treated himself to a smoked herring - its skin golden and sprinkled with salt, some radish, a touch of mustard sauce, the ever present rye bread and a beer.  And then did a quick look around the smoke house just to check out how things were done. Though he did find that those little bones a bit of a bother and even the next day the smell of smoke clung to his clothes but none of that dulled his enjoyment of this very Baltic delicacy. Mind you when the tour guide suggested that in other times people subsisted on a three daily meals of smoked herring he was appreciative that those times were long passed. And he did have have the willpower to resist the urgings of a nice gentleman from the boat to bring back a length of smoked eel to enjoy (???) in his stateroom. Beside he knew that there was more smoked goodies to come at the next stop.



A leisurely ride through a magnificent forest - the brainchild of an enterprising forester in the late 1800s who realized that the climate and the soil would create a lushness where once there was only Ice Age scoured rock - brought Sidd to one of the success stories in the Danish culinary world: a small farm which produces some of the finest sausages and smoked meats in the Baltic. Its been a working farm since the 1800s and Urich the butcher has been smoking his signature sausages and meats there for the past 25 years and to the delight of mainlanders exporting them for the past 10.





Sidd contemplates the porcine and bovine goodies but his favourite was the sausage basted in Maple Syrup!  A real dyed in the wool Canuek is our Sidd.




Urich's bacon is served in some of the finer restaurants in the Baltic - if only I could have Cecilia believe me I would have!
Sidd (and the rest of us) sat down with Urich and sampled a wide range of smoked goodies - and we even got to taste his wife's homemade rhubarb chutney.
Though he has modern equipment for the more common - if anything he produces can be considered common - pub and breakfast sausages his artisan products are still smoked and cured in the old way. Hanging row upon row in deep cave like rooms they bath in the smoke of fine birch chips, often augmented by herbs and basting liquids, for as long as two weeks. The end result is a variety of sausages and meats with the subtle but deep taste of wood smoke - being a true patriot son Sidd's favourite was a semi-hard sausage that mixed the tang of the smoke with the sweetness of real Canadian maple syrup.

The town of Gudhjem stood in Ronne in Denmark's first Oscar winning movie Pele the Conqueror - the opening scenes were shot on the dock there.  Even back in 1987 the bigger port had become too commercial while the small port had retained much of its original charm.

Though there were not more tasty treats until the evening's Connoisseur Dinner Sidd did stop by a former grist mill in Gudhjem and took a rather strenuous walk through the really charming coastal village. By the time he got back to the ship he was ready for a nap and ended up sleeping right through a seven course meal with interesting wine pairings - who would have thought to serve scallops napped with veal jus reduction and crispy bacon then paired it with a Pinot Noir from California? Sometimes breaking out of the traditional can be an interesting, and rewarding thing.


14 June - 1872: Trade unions are legalised in Canada.


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Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Thinking of Christmas in June???

Anyone who knows me, or thinks they know me, knows that I have far too many Christmas ornaments. And even in the old days with a 9 foot tree many of them were left in the box at the Yuletide trim; and with a much smaller one in our new location even more find themselves nestled amongst tissue rather than pine boughs. And I have vowed more than once that enough was enough and there was not to be another Christmas tree ornament enter the house.

Well that was until I saw this really sweet Danish solider in full dress uniform in the Royal Copenhagen store on Stroget! No I don't mean a real Danish soldier I mean this blown-glass chappie in the busby standing guard outside the Amalienborg Palace.  I mean how fine is he going to look seven months from now hanging in a place of honour on the tree????


And I swear, once again but this time I mean it, this is the last Christmas ornament I will buy. Honestly!

12 June - 1942: Anne Frank receives a diary for her thirteenth birthday.

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Monday, June 11, 2012

Travels with Sidd - Food Glorious Food

Befitting an international traveller our Sidd has fairly catholic taste in food - he's pretty much happy to look at anything you put in front of him and so far on this trip he's had some tasty treats to consider.



On the flight coming over he really thought that given the amount of bitching he'd heard from people that the meal in Business Class wasn't all that bad. The garlic mashed potatoes were a real treat and the tenderloin was pretty good for beef at 35,000 feet.




And of course you can't expect a fella to go to the Netherlands and not have a pint - or two - of Heineken. That and a few Dutch croquettes are balm to the weary soul of the jet lagged tourist.




And what could be more traditional of Amsterdam than a pancake hot off the griddle topped with all sorts of goodies. Though Sidd had to admit that that tomato, cheese and mushroom one sort of reminded him of a few of the pizzas that Lara has cooked up (well okay not exactly cooked but lets not go there) back home in Richmond.




de belhamel, a wonderful restaurant a block from the apartment - thanks to Kevin for the recommendation - preferred that gnomes not have their pictures taken in the dining room but were more than happy to allow a quick shot of Sidd as he contemplated a glass of prosecco in their lovely Art Nouveau bar. But he was told that the half lobster and shrimp and scollop starters followed by the new Asparagus Flemish style and Rack of Dutch Lamb mains were excellent. A funky, fun and it would appear fashionable place to have a Friday night dinner.







The rain on Saturday forced Sidd - and us - into a tapas bar called, would you believe, Paella. It was a chance to practice our Spanish - not sure how big that goes over given the history of the Netherlands - and tuck into ham croquettes, meat balls, garlic shrimp, calamari and a few glasses of a light Spanish white. Just the thing for a rainy slightly chilly day.




When you see a group of Chinese people lining up for a Mandarin style restaurant it must be good. And New King was extremely crowded and extremely good on Saturday night. One nice little touch that was much appreciated - we had order several types of dumplings, a mixed pork and duck platter and broccoli and were about to order a chicken dish when the young, and Sidd noticed very pretty, waitress suggested that the plates were rather large and maybe we were ordering too much. She was right but I know of so many places where they would have simply let us go ahead - more money for them! Kevin had suggested that anything involving duck was going to be a treat and he was right. The crispy duck rolls were magnificent - tender slices of flavourful duck in a light crisp batter and a tasty orange tinged sauce. And we wonder why Sidd is smiling.




After lunch with our MJ on Sunday we headed over to a cheese shop that Sidd had notice before. You'll notice how big his eyes got when surrounded by a plethora of well-aged cheese goodness. We tried a bit on his behalf and just had buy some to nibble on once we get back to Canada.




After all that food Sidd was prepared to work it off by tackling those stairs down with his bags in hand. We however had to have some help - thanks MJ and Rene.

11 June - 1184 BC: Trojan War: Troy is sacked and burned, according to calculations by Eratosthenes.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

The Burning Bush

A sketch of the famous tower by
Rembrandt (who is buried in the church)
is the Westerkerk logo. A right click will
take you to their website.
The very nice gentleman at the souvenir shop in the Westerkerk explained that the church's origins were Calvinist but that after the merger in 2004 of three of Holland's Protestant sects it became a progressive congregation within the communion of the Protestant Church of the Netherlands. He, rather shyly I thought, invited us to morning worship with the comment that the service would be in Dutch but he was sure the hymns would speak to us and we were welcome to take communion with as part of their congregation.

His invitation was hardly out of place when you consider the church's location. Next door is the Anne Frank House, in the church courtyard stands a statue of its little neighbour who wrote of the comfort its bells brought her and from the green space behind it the Homomonument reaches its pink triangle out to touch the waters of the canal. And within is one of the most eloquent and elegant symbols of ecumenicism I have ever seen: Hans 't Mannetje's The Burning Bush.

Created at the suggestion of Fokkelien Oosterwijkm, the church's minister, it was unveiled on December 9, 2007. Taking as its inspiration a passage that is common to the Torah, Christian Bible and the Koran it also draws on the age old tradition of lighting a candle as a way of bringing our wishes, prayers, cares and joys to the Devine. As anyone who has read my blog over the years knows the lighting of a candle has always been my way of remember people I love and care for, their and my wishes, prayers, cares and joys.  During my four years in Italy it was my common, sometimes daily, practice to drop into a church and take a few minutes to light a candle - I'm not sure if it did any good but if nothing else it brought a little light into a patch of darkness. When Laurent and I were married five years ago one of the things we did was to light a candle to represent all of our friends and loved ones who could not be there on that day.   For us that small flame embodied all those we loved, past and present. 

A stylized bush made up of clusters of leaves enclosing candle cups, Hans 't Mannetje's brass sculpture
is a reminder of the commonality of many of the faiths that often seem to stress only their differences.

't Mannetje's magnificent brass monument reminds us that in Judaism, Christianity and Islam the story of Moses and his encounter with his God is common to all three.
Torah תּוֹרָה / Bible
And the Angel of the Lord appeared to him in a flame of fire from the midst of a bush. So he looked, and behold, the bush was burning with fire, but the bush was not consumed. Then Moses said, “I will now turn aside and see this great sight, why the bush does not burn.” So when the Lord saw that he turned aside to look, God called to him from the midst of the bush and said, “Moses, Moses!” And he said, “Here I am.” Then He said, “Do not draw near this place. Take your sandals off your feet, for the place where you stand is holy ground.” Moreover He said, “I am the God of your father—the God of Abraham, the God of Isaac, and the God of Jacob.” And Moses hid his face, for he was afraid to look upon God.
Koran القرآن
Has the story of Moses reached Thee? Behold he saw a fire: So he said to his family, "Tarry ye: I perceive a fire; perhaps I can bring you some burning brand therefrom, or find some guidance at the fire." But when he came to the fire, a voice was heard: "O Moses! "Verily I am thy Lord! Therefore (in My presence) Put off thy shoes: thou art In the sacred valley Tuwa. "I have chosen thee: Listen, then, to the inspiration (Sent to thee). "Verily, I am God: There is no god but I: So serve thou Me (only), And establish regular prayer For celebrating My praise." But when he came to the valley a voice was heard from the right bank of the valley, from a tree in hallowed ground: "Oh Moses. I am Allah, the Lord of the Worlds."

So this morning I lit a candle and placing it into one of the hundreds of cups that make up the Burning Bush  and I remember all my loved ones - their wishes, prayers, cares and joys and for a few minutes a small patch of darkness was illuminated.

10 June -1829: The first Boat Race between the University of Oxford and the University of Cambridge takes place.

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Saturday, June 09, 2012

Travels With Sidd - Amsterdam I

Well the idea was that I would start blogging about the trip when I arrived here in Amsterdam and that if I got lazy Sidd would encourage me.

Let's just say that by the time that we arrived in Amsterdam the old body clock was way out of whack and the overriding compulsion was sleep and nourishment. It had been a bit of a long - though no unpleasant - haul. A good flight from Ottawa to Frankfurt - I'm not crazy about the pod concept in business class but the food was excellent and the flight attendants extremely good. We left Ottawa about 90 minutes late which raised some concerns about catching our train to Amsterdam; but damn it you have to love German efficiency: we landed at 1035 and made the 1143 ICE with 5 minutes to spare.

The apartment we're staying at wasn't that far from the train station but we took a cab anyway and frankly I think Sidd is glad we did.  He was feeling the time change and when he was confronted with the staircase - one of two - that led to our accommodation he - and we - needed all our strength.


I assured him that once he got to the top he'd enjoy the view and that after this he'd be carried up and down.  And I didn't mention the second set - that were even steeper.  Like I said before Sidd's a trooper!



June 9 - 1667: The Raid on the Medway by the Dutch fleet begins. It lasts for five days and results in a decisive victory by the Dutch over the English in the Second Anglo-Dutch War.

Wednesday, June 06, 2012

Travels With Sidd - The Airport Lounge - Ottawa

Don't panic there is no intention of turning this into a blog version of that Twitter thing or what ever its called but Sidd just wanted to let Lara know that he's okay. His flights late but after a glass of Air Canada's finest white and wet (????) he's not about to complain to the very gracious hostess - who happens to be an old friend of his traveling companions.




So he's just sitting here, enjoying the relentless chatter on TSN - was this the same guys who did the Royal Jubilee for BBC? - and snickering at the badly dressed people who have access to the Maple Leaf Lounge. And maybe have another glass of the white and wet!
06 June - 1654 – Charles X succeeds his abdicated cousin Queen Christina to the Swedish throne.
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Mercoledi Musciale

When I first heard the Verdi Requiem on the radio back in 1959 and not being terribly impressed - sorry I was an opera snob fan and wasn't going to go for any of this religious stuff.  Looking at the archives at the Met now I realize that it was actually a pretty special occasion - it was the last performance there conducted by Bruno Walter.  It was also the afternoon when Zinka Milanov had to retire after the several minutes and was replaced by Heidi Krall.  But even with such excitement I turned a "blind ear" to it.  It just wasn't my cup of tea.

Fast forward to the 1970s when I had begun to actually listen to the Requiem and become familiar with the work - its form and structure, its antecedents and its subtleties.  I finally ended up with three recordings of it and have since acquired three more on iTunes; and in the past three years I have heard it performed four times.   Though none of those performances have reached anywhere nearing I cam away from each one having heard something new and wonderful or in a new and wonderful way.

The most recent performance was here at the National Arts Centre in Ottawa.  The NAC Orchestra has grown under Pinkas Zuckerman and though I may not always enjoy his style of conducting I have to admire his programming skills.  As with the three performances I saw in Rome - Santa Cecilia twice and La Scala once - the chorus at the NAC were the stars of the evening.  I mentioned to my friend Ben, who is in the chorus, that I had never realized how strong the Gregorian strain is in the choral music - and he tells me that chorus master extraordinare Duain Wolfe had worked on archiving the sound of chant for much of their rehearsal time.  A difficult effect had been suburbly realized 

But perhaps the most difficult task in any performance of the Requiem is assembling a quartet of soloists who can do justice to the music Verdi allotted to his soprano, mezzo, tenor and bass.  And in a day and age when real Verdi singers are a rarity it must be even more difficult.

Though Jon Vickers was never a Verdi tenor in the truest sense of the word in this 1970 recording with Sir John Barbirolli he brings a passion and intensity to the Ingemisco that has yet to be matched.


I groan as a guilty one,
and my face blushes with guilt;
spare the supplicant, O God.

You, who absolved Mary Magdalene,
and heard the prayer of the thief,
have given me hope, as well.

My prayers are not worthy,
but show mercy, O benevolent one,
lest I burn forever in fire.

Give me a place among the sheep,
and separate me from the goats,
placing me on your right hand.

At the risk of sounding like one of those old opera fans who bemoaning the passing of a golden age - they just don't make them like that anymore.  And I do apologize that it cuts out just as the Confutatis maledictis begins but I'd have to post another 5 minutes and that would lead to the Lacrymosa dies illa and then I'd feel I had to add the rest and ...  well you get the drift. Funny how much I love this "non-operatic" Verdi now.

06 June -  1813: War of 1812: Battle of Stoney Creek – A British force of 700 under John Vincent defeats an American force two times its size.
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Tuesday, June 05, 2012

Travels with Sidd - Libya

I just received a message from Sidd who paused in his packing to read the blog today. He was a little miffed that I suggest that his travels were purely of a sybaritic nature. He assured me that he fully immerses himself in the cultures that he visits.

As proof he sent along this holiday snap of a late afternoon plunge into life in Tripoli. Even in a danger zone Sidd was able to find a suitable hot tub!




You're a trooper Sidd!

05 June - 1977: The Apple II, one of the first personal computers, goes on sale.

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Travels With Sidd




Sidd - in the style of Van Gogh

The little guy with the suitcase is Sidd.  Sidd is a gnome. But he isn’t just any gnome – Sidd is a travel gnome and he's prepared himself for first stop on our upcoming trip together by commissioning a portrait in the style of Vincent Van Gogh. What can we say? Sidd's like that - he's a man of the world - he even had a brief fling with Miss South Africa and a friend!!!! And in the past ten years he's travelled! Boy has he travelled!
Big deal say most of you - so who doesn't travel these days? Yes but when Sidd travels he travels. He recently returned from a trip to Libya - yep Tripoli in these dangerous times, Sidd knows no fear. He's been to Albania, Australia and the North Pole,  he's had a lei in Hawaii,  gambled in Las Vegas and thumbed his nose at the Seven Dwarfs at Disneyland, and a few month's ago he was in Montevideo kicking up a storm with our buddy Harold and carrying on with those  beauty queens.



Sidd in Montevideo with Miss South Africa and a friend

Sidd accompanied me on a rather more staid trip to London in January – not much adventure there compared to Libya or Uruguay but I’m going to try and make it up to him over the next two weeks. He’s joining us on our trip to the Baltic. I’ve promised Lara - who Sidd lives with when he isn't on the road - that we will watch his vodka intake in St Petersburg, keep him away from the pot houses of Amsterdam and definitely not allow him to wander down the Reeperbahn alone in Hamburg, nor dance naked around a maypole on mid-summer’s eve in Stockholm. Poor Sid doesn’t look like he’s going to having much fun on this trip - bet he’ll be wishing he was back in Montevideo with Harold rather than travelling around the Baltic with us.



Posing on top of a post box in West Kenn
is hardly as exciting as Tripoli or the North
Pole but it was his first trip to London and
he did get to see Dame Edna.

Mind you Sidd is going to be travelling in style - Wednesday night he'll be heading for Frankfurt in business class and the next day speeding through the countryside to Amsterdam on one of those  sleek German trains.  And starting Sunday he'll have a veranda suite at the prow of a very nice luxury cruise ship - maybe he'll talk someone at the ship's bar into doing a Kate Winslet to his Leonardo DiCaprio?  He'll be making stops in Hamburg, Copenhagen, Helsinki, St Petersberg, Tallinn and Stockholm.  He'll be taking planes and boats and trains through Northern Europe and Scandinavia; sampling beer in Hamburg and Ronne; visiting the Tivoli Gardens and Drottlingholm Palace; pausing in a few churches and gawking at the wonders in some world famous museums. And who knows he may make some friends along the way who'll take his mind off Miss South Africa.  But he has promised that while I'm having an on-board spa treatment he'll try and keep the blog up to date as we bound over the main.  And if he misses a day or two we can blame it on the vodka!


05 June - 1883: The first regularly scheduled Orient Express departs Paris.


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Monday, June 04, 2012

Lunedi Lunacy




And I got:
For the answer, click and drag your mouse from star to star.
*Dramatic - Passionate - Restless - Elegant???? Rather interesting that I read horizontally not vertically. Wonder if that says something?*

And what about you?

04 June - 1411: King Charles VI granted a monopoly for the ripening of Roquefort cheese to the people of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon as they had been doing for centuries.

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Sunday, June 03, 2012

Little Tricks of Nature

Last fall a plea went out from the Humane Society - I believe it was - for people to "foster" litters of squirrels that had been born late in the season. Apparently the early arrival of warm weather had encourage an unprecedented level of the sort of activity that guarantees an increase in the rodent population of our mighty metropolis. Though they aren't mentioned in Cole Porter's famous song apparently squirrels do do it - and last year they did it with a vengeance. And if proof were needed simply stepping out the back entrance to our building is all that's needed - and stepping out of the building with Nora guarantees that the presence of chattering, scampering black or gray rodents will be well noted - by half the neighborhood.

Offered with apologies to Quentin Tarantino.



Our Nora comes from a long line of hunters - as oft mentioned her mother, the lovely Lucy, is a champion boar hunter in Italy. And Nora has inherited all her mother's hunting instincts and the truly frightening hound howl that echoes many mornings across the Canal. Failing the presence of any great number of boars in the area our girl has decided that the pursuit of Sciurus carolinensis is a fair enough substitute. Many of our neighbours are in full support of her decision and would be more than thrilled should she succeed in "decreasing the surplice population".

However there is one gentleman who has made it his mission to show up every night at 1800 with bags of nuts which he distributes around the neighbourhood. Now whatever you say about squirrels - and believe me the people around here have much to say about squirrels, none of it printable in what is after all a family blog - they are bright little creatures. They know this gentleman will show up every evening and at 1800 precisely they appear lurking around the edges of the landscape like creatures in a Stephan King novel. Why spend all that time foraging when you know the nutty Good Humour man will be making his appointed rounds like clockwork.

And if further proof is needed of the intelligence of these ubiquitous pests this little scene caught my eye on Friday afternoon as I was walking home through Confederation Park.



Why do I honestly believe if the earth is flattened in one of those cataclysmic accidents beloved of Hollywood and young video game players that the only thing left will be ants, dandelions and... squirrels?

03 June - 1889 – The transcontinental Canadian Pacific Railway is completed.

Saturday, June 02, 2012

Time to Van Gogh


As I mentioned a few days ago the big "blockbuster" exhibition at the National Gallery for this summer is Van Gogh: Up Close - the first major showing of a collection of the Dutch post-impressionists paintings in Canada for 25 years.  The first time I saw a real Van Gogh would have been in the late 1950s - if my fading memory serves me right.   I vaguely remember lining up to shuffle - and in some case be shoved - passed some of his more famous works at the old AGO.  I do recall a flash of brilliant yellow and orange sunflowers until someone barked at me that "others wanna see the pictures too you know!" or at least that was the gist of the remark.  Ah the sophistication of Toronto in the 1950s.

The opening night of the current exhibition dragged that memory out of the fog of time as we joined the crowds gathering around the 40 paintings that have been culled from private and public collections from around the world.  It was difficult to appreciate the stated purpose of the exhibition to give us an "up close" view of his development - the volume of people meant you were either at a distance or really really close up.  I'll hold off on giving an opinion on it after a second - hopefully less crowded - visit in the next month or two.

Painted in Paris early in 1887 this is one of a series of canvases capturing the worn
footwear of a labourer.  The Cone Collection, Baltimore Museum of Fine Art  


But as so often happens I found that as lovely as the Iris and the Almond Blossom paintings are I was captivated by a still life Van Gogh completed in 1887 of a pair of old shoes.  Shoes were the subject of at least seven of his oils between 1886 and 1888.  Not the shoes of the ladies and gentleman of the salons but the worn, scuffed and oft mended shoes of labourers and workmen.  There have been lectures, dissertations and the odd thesis written about the meaning of these works.  Is Van Gogh using them as a metaphor for the wearing artistic road he has chosen?  Do the shoes symbolize the rough existence of the painter in an unappreciative world?  Or are they just a pair of shoes? Simply just another subject for a still-life?  What ever it is I found it one of the more interesting paintings in the exhibition.

Van Gogh purchased a number of woodcut prints in the dockyards at Antwerp and began to paint
copies of several of them including this one of The Plum Garden in Kameido.  I have to say that
I prefer the Hiroshige original(left) to the Van Gogh copy. I find he has turned something
that was light and has life into a dark, flat and ponderous vision.


100 Famous Views of Edo
Evening Shower at Atake
and the Great Bridge
Hiroshige - 1856-1856
Now I may just be being perverse but on first viewing I enjoyed two other related exhibits more than the major one.   With the opening of trade from Japan Ukiyo-e had begun to appear on the European scene at the time and Van Gogh had purchased a series of the stylized woodblock paintings that were to influence many of his works.  I had forgotten that the Royal Ontario Museum has an extensive collection of these pieces; thirty of them were on loan to the Gallery as illustrations of the style and their impact on the painter.  The majority of them were by the renowned and much revered 18th century artist Hiroshige - Van Gogh painted copies of several of the Japanese master's works.  My own feeling was that though it did accomplish its stated purpose - to illustrate their influence on Van Gogh  - this small exhibition was of such quality and interest that it could have stood very well on its own.


One of the thirty five small landscapes that Augustin Hirschvogel etched between 1545 and 1549.  This small jewel
is only 5.4 by 15.5 cms (2.126" by 6.102") but is filled with details that bring the scene to life.
Perhaps a little more obscure in purpose was a collection of graphics - etchings, pen and ink - from the National Gallery's own collection.  Many of the pieces on display are squirrelled  away in the archives of the Gallery - there just isn't enough space - and aren't often on display.  A lady beside mentioned that they can be viewed by arrangement with the gallery - which is perhaps a project for the future????  There were three in particular that immediately attracted me and that I must admit I spent more time in front of than anything else at the exhibition.   First and foremost was a small landscape by Augustin Hirschvogel - a tiny perfect view of a small town.  Hirschvogel was a member of the Danube School and is best known for a series of small landscapes he etched between 1545 and 1549.  I was fascinated by the detail that he achieved in a medium which he had only taken up in the last decade of his life.

Kolbe's The Cow in the Reeds is typical of his work - the vegetation takes on
gigantic proportions and dominates the scene almost overwhelming the resting cow.  Perhaps given all that
greenery the cow has decided she would be foolish to leave such abundant grazing.
Beside the Hirschvogel was a lovely study of St Jerome and the Lion amongst Ruins from the same period.  I haven't been able to track down anything about it either on the Gallery's website or through Google.  I will have to make another visit to find out more about it.  From a later period (1801) was an etching by Karl Wilhelm Kolbe, a German artist who seemed to have a bit of an obsession with cows.  A quick search revealed that his studies of various flora seemed to have cows as their fauna on more than one occasion.  I found The Cow in the Reeds which he did somewhere between 1800 and 1803 a delight.  It took a bit to find the cow but she is definitely there and seem quite quite contented.

During a bit of a hiatus in my work life at the beginning of July - more about that another time - I'll try and get back to the Gallery for a second more leisurely look.  But in the meantime I'm gearing up for the possibility of more Van Gogh's when I spend a few days in Amsterdam next week  - and more about that later.

02 June - 1846: Birth of the Italian Republic: In a referendum, Italians vote to turn Italy from a monarchy into a Republic.

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